View Full Version : Night Striker's Method of Tuning, Anyone...?
03-24-2006, 01:42 AM
Has anyone out there tried this? The Clipping the spring Part. I would really hate to make my 32* Light Valve spring junk. This is off the Insane Pain Web site.
"1. If you need more air to the ball.- You can turn up your reg. open up your valve and valve stem (home mod). High flowing bolt. Clip 1/8” off valve spring and re chrono. Keep clipping until FPS is achieved."
05 Pilot ACS
CheckIT assault Block
WGP Ergo Reg
32* Valve & Spring Kit
When I had the Stock striker in I was running about 400 psi at 285, now with the DH Striker I can't get the velocity over 240 fps even if I turn the pressure up to 500 psi. This might be a completely different problem.
03-24-2006, 03:22 AM
Lighter striker means for not enough beans to open the valve for a long enough period. You will probibly need to put the stock or medium spring back into the marker for the main spring and use the light for your valve. The could also be a problem with the balls being to large for your barrel, so check you paint to barrel match
03-24-2006, 08:23 AM
I'm sure if you changed your font color to something normal that we can see, you'd get more responses :dodgy:
03-24-2006, 03:50 PM
His theory works. I have been tuning markers like that for awhile. Here is why. The force from the air pressure behind the valve will hold it closed. When you goto the lighter striker it doesn't hit the valve hard enough to slam the valve open like normal. The whole purpose on going to a lighter striker is to reduce kick, right? Well if you lighten the striker and use a harder main spring it defeets the purpose of lightening the internals and the kick will be about the same (a tad less). Now if you say "okay I'll stick with the light main and then bump the air pressure up", then you will go down in psi. This is because the valve has too much force and the striker can not open it all the way.
Here is how I have my marker set-up with a Night Striker XL.
I used a Rocket valve with a cut DM5 trigger spring as the valve spring. It provides just enough pressure to keep the valve pin stable but is weak enough to allow the striker to open it fully. For the main spring I have a soft (green) maddman main spring with a few loops cut off of it.
Hope this helps.
03-24-2006, 06:40 PM
well .. .im assuming you already have a super duper heavy valve spring .. so you get better efficiency .... try adjusting those a bit with a harder mainspring ... that would probably help
03-24-2006, 07:43 PM
Thanks Trooper. I'll give it a try. If I Screw it up I'll just spend another $10 on a new Spring Kit.