View Full Version : What's a good HPR?

06-22-2011, 02:38 PM
Could anyone please guide me in the right direction to this topic. I'm new to the regulator world. I would like to use one to better tune my spyder pump project once it's gets rolling. I'm curious though because from what I've been reading most regulators now days are LPRs. I think if I run CO2 on a pre-2k5 spyder I would need an HPR, correct?

06-22-2011, 05:52 PM
many early spyders didnt even have an expansion chamber, let alone a reg, so to my knowledge you dont need one to run co2

06-22-2011, 06:05 PM
many early spyders didnt even have an expansion chamber, let alone a reg, so to my knowledge you dont need one to run co2
Oh the early ones didn't. But I'm wanting to use a regulator so that I don't have to play with different spring combinations. I'm also reading that you can fine tune the regulator better than spring tensions. Is the regulator route not a good way to go?

06-22-2011, 07:38 PM
You don't necessarily need a HPR to run CO2 but you do need a reg that works with co2, not all of them do.
You might still find yourself playing with spring combinations though.

06-23-2011, 12:33 AM
A quality regulator is an excellent way to go with any marker. I would highly recommend a Palmer's Stabilizer due to it's extremely good results with CO2 and decent results with HPA. I say decent results for HPA because there are many better than it in the HPA only regulator market, but not any I can think of off the top of my head in the CO2 regulator market. You WILL have to play with your springs no matter what you do, but the regulator will make the process much easier. With a Spyder (and any Intimidator based marker), the HP air flowing in from the HPR helps seal the cupseal/valve closed. So, more pressure from HPR means lighter valve spring and heavier main. Less HPR pressure, and you should go with a lighter valve spring and a lighter main than with more pressure.

You also play with this in Autocockers, particularly in Snipers.

06-23-2011, 01:51 AM
Thanks for all your guys' help thus far. I know you said 'quality' red but dang, $100 is a lot for me to spend, on just a part, for a hobby thing. Is there anything comprable to a palmer's stab? I was reading that Bob Long Torpedos are pretty decent as well as AKA sidewinders and 2-liters.

06-23-2011, 04:55 AM
The Palmer's Stab is pretty much the way to go with CO2. I tried using an old torpedo but that had trouble keeping up then froze up when I started firing a little faster. I know it's expensive but you can't beat its quality. Think of it this way... you could spend money on another reg and not get the results you want and end up buying the Stab anyways, therefore spending twice when you could just save yourself the time, hassle and a maybe bit of money by just going for the Stab first.

06-23-2011, 10:16 AM
Ok I'll take the plunge since you guys say it's worth it. I think I'll browse pbn or mcb and searh through the sales threads. I seem them for sale from time to time and I'm not in a rush to finish the project. Thanks for all the help guys.

06-23-2011, 11:21 AM
I used a Torp on my spyders, an it was good enough that I then moved it to other guns. I never had any problems with it freezing or anything like that with Co2. It's a good regulator and costs a LOT less than the Stab...

Just sayin...quality is awesome and all, but on a budget, the Torp is the way to go. And imho, the Torpedo may not be top of the line, but it's darn close.

06-23-2011, 12:18 PM
Thanks for another perspective viking. Also thanks for you spump tutorials. It helps A LOT. Did you use the torpedo on the pump you made?

06-23-2011, 01:07 PM
Yeah, a Torpedo will work, and work decently well for a long time, but by far the two regulators I have loved are my old school Sidewinder (the one that doesn't look like a bong) and my Palmer's. I sold my Palmer's long ago as I don't use CO2 at all anymore, and still miss it. The Sidewinder is HPA only as far as I'm concerned. You can always keep the regulator for other markers, and Palmer's hold their value pretty well due to their reputation and quality.

Try looking on the used market, a Palmer's should be around $70-80 shipped to your door. They're near indestructible, so I wouldn't think twice about buying one used VS new except if it looked like it had been hit by a freight train.

06-23-2011, 02:29 PM
I will definitely do that. Thanks red. Thanks to everybody for their input.

06-23-2011, 04:59 PM
One more question before I venture out and find one. Is there a difference between the fatty stabilizer and the regular one?

06-23-2011, 05:22 PM
Thanks for another perspective viking. Also thanks for you spump tutorials. It helps A LOT. Did you use the torpedo on the pump you made?

You're welcome! That's what I hoped for when I wrote them...

No, I don't use a reg on the pump I built. That's just a gas through actually, haha! But I did use the Torp on it before I changed it....

07-15-2011, 10:14 PM
Guess what I got?!
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n235/rayraychach/Forums%20Pics/th_IMG_0493.jpg (http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n235/rayraychach/Forums%20Pics/?action=view&current=IMG_0493.jpg)
The gauge on it only goes up to 500psi. So I'm assuming this one is setup for low pressure. Is there any way for me to tell if it's setup for low pressure or vice versa?

07-16-2011, 12:44 AM
500psi straight on will burst a ball like noone's business, so it will be perfectly fine. As a matter of fact, a paintball with optimum efficiency should reach 300fps off of a little less than 150psi hitting it. We found that out on a NecroRam project for an Intimidator, but the physics and math are mostly still the same for other markers.

With a proper spring kit, polished/lightened internals, and a good flowing valve (since you're going pump that's in the bag), I would hazard a guess you will be fine off 400psi. My Sniper is less since its a Cocker, but you can make a Spyder run just as low with enough fiddling and determination.

07-16-2011, 01:02 AM
Thanks for that explanation red. You are always helpful.