View Full Version : Spyder Aggressor XT question

10-04-2010, 07:37 PM
I checked a lot of the forum, used the search tool but couldn't find any info on this...so a bit about me first and then my question!

Ok so it's been several years since I have done any paint balling. My gun is a Spyder Aggressor XT(green if that makes any difference as I know there is also a blue one, not sure if they are designed the same or not). I have had it for...shesh I think over 10 years. Anyway, a group of guys from work play and asked me to join them, however I was told that the course they go to only allows HPA, which after checking the internet apparently the change wouldn't be overly difficult to go from CO2 to HPA, though they didn't specify if any marker could do this.

On the side of my gun is says to use CO2 only.

So, my question is this, is it possible to change a Spyder Aggressor XT to HPA, and if so, what would I need? I purchased an air tank from Sheels Sporting goods, the make of it is Pure Energy so I already have that, anything else I would need?

I know I shouldn't have without asking first, but I attached the filled air tank to my gun just to see if it would stay cocked, which it did, I even "popped" off a couple of shots to make sure it would re-cock. I didn't have any paint in the gun, so I have no idea whether or not it will chop the balls or not (guess this depends on how much psi the tank is providing to the gun?)

Thanks in advance for any responses to my quandary!! I only have 2 weeks before their next outing, so I would really want to get the gun prepped before then, hopefully by this next weekend if possible!

10-04-2010, 08:16 PM
i'm not sure why it wouldnt work on HPA but spyders that are that old may be different from newer ones, since you even went out and bought a new tank you could always buy a new gun, new mech spyders run from $60-$85 I'd suggest an 09 or newer sonix. they come stock with a clamping feedneck

10-05-2010, 06:34 AM
When was the last time you stripped it down to clean it? If not with in the past few months, do it. Strip it down to nothing & either wash or wipe down everything with HOT soapy water. The striker, only wipe it down as it is steel & you dont want to worry about rust.

Reassemble everything with new orings & fresh lube. Triflow & Goldcup are used in the paintball world alot but I have had good luck using Lucas Air Tool oil.

Now scre in your tank & try it. If it still does not recock, put your hand over the breech (where the barrel screws in) WITH OUT PAINT & fire it again. If it recocks, then you will have to use some paint to test fire it or get a spring kit.

If you need some orings for it, let me know.

10-05-2010, 02:24 PM
I actually stripped it down this last weekend and checked the o rings and oiled it. The only o ring that was bad, that i could tell, was on the velocity control screw, that one crumbled off the bolt as soon as I unscrewed it, planning on hitting our local paintball supply store to buy a whole new assortment and replace them all just in case. Are there different o rings used for CO2 vs HPA?

10-05-2010, 06:10 PM
The bolt, valve & front block will use -015 Buna (size that fits the tank). The striker can use one & work but best results are from using the red one that came stock.

10-06-2010, 07:17 AM
First of all, Welcome to the Forum!

Secondly, you should be fine to use HPA with your Spyder. Both tanks have about the same output pressure which is the biggest concern. I'm sure you're markers says to only use co2 because back when it was made, co2 was the only thing that was used. There is no different o-rings for HPA vs co2.

I hope that answers all your questions. If you have anymore, please feel free to ask.

(On a side note, this was posted in the wrong section so I moved it to the correct one)

10-07-2010, 06:23 PM
Thanks for the info guys! Will let you all know how it goes after next weekend! I can't wait to get back into the trenches!!