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View Full Version : MR1 side cocking conversion.


rayray88
04-17-2010, 09:08 PM
Has anyone tried this? I was looking at doing it this morning. While I was looking at it I noticed that the top and bottom tube weren't connected like the older spyders. So i was wondering if the only way to do it is to cut the metal between the top and bottom tube and then dremeling the bottom tube for the side cocking cocking pin.

slim and shady
04-18-2010, 06:59 AM
or you would have to leave the top pin long enough to grab with a pair of pliers or whatever.

rayray88
04-18-2010, 02:07 PM
So are you saying to just cut the top of the cocking pin off and leave it long enough so you can cock it back with pliers and then not do any other modifications?

Hob Hayward
04-18-2010, 05:49 PM
While I was looking at it I noticed that the top and bottom tube weren't connected like the older spyders.

Unless I'm deeply mistaken you're wrong there, the MR1's bolt and striker are connected the same way that they always have been in Spyders.

To do this you'd need to mill out a slot either along the top or bottom tube, and then either modify your bolt or striker to have a side-cocking pin, or find an older side cocking spyder bolt. There used to be side cocking spyders in which the pin was mounted on the striker, but I believe those were only on the older fatty strikers.

In any case, doing this with a dremel is possible, but it would be pretty much impossible to do a clean job. If you know someone with a mill, or got a machine shop to do it, it'd work much better.

rayray88
04-18-2010, 07:09 PM
Unless I'm deeply mistaken you're wrong there, the MR1's bolt and striker are connected the same way that they always have been in Spyders.

Sorry, I didn't explain things clearly, I meant the MR1 doesn't have the same cutout for the bolt and striker to be removed as the older spyders. I know that the MR1 use the cocking pin to line up and pull back the bolt and striker. However, in the older spyders there was a slot inbetween the top and bottom tubes, not only for the cocking pin to connect the bolt and striker, but to allow the bolt and striker to be removed since there was a metal pin underneath the bolt for the striker to be attached. Also I have the old side cocking striker. Also the Alamo City Imagine bolt (http://www.alamocitypb.com/MANUFACTPAGES/bolts.html) is a perfect replacement for this mod. Anyway, see how the older spyder has the cutout for the pin in between the bolt and the striker. The MR1 doesn't have that. So I was wondering what would be the best way to cut it out.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n235/rayraychach/IMG_0248.jpghttp://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n235/rayraychach/IMG_0254.jpg

Hob Hayward
04-18-2010, 08:40 PM
Ah yeah now I get what you mean. Maybe do as slim and shady suggested and just cut down the top cocking pin so it can be removed with needle nose pliers or something. It'll be visible, but not in the way?

Either that or get get someone with a mill to take the slot out... I can't really tell how long that section at the back is. If you don' have access to a mill, you might be able to dremel it, but it'll be pretty hard to do(/impossible?). I noticed on alamo city they have a pump conversion package now in which they mill a slot out of the side of the top tube. Maybe you could contact them and get them to cut the bottom tube and the slot at the back out, shouldn't be too expensive I would think as long as you can mark exactly what you want cut so they don't have to do any work.

May I ask why you want to convert to side cocking?

slim and shady
04-18-2010, 09:31 PM
no clearly you would have to put your handel on the side to cock it, however the bolt and striker still need to be held in unison so cut the top part off so its not sticking out the top but still holds the two together leave it long enough to be able to grab if you need to strip it.

rayray88
04-19-2010, 12:35 AM
May I ask why you want to convert to side cocking?

I just think it would be cool have a nice flat top so that you can add accessories on it. I have attached an m4 carry handle to it already by modding the base od the carry handle so that it allows for the bolt to move but it looks kind of awkward since the sights hang off the edge. Like these guys http://img246.imageshack.us/i/cimg0257ck2.jpg/, http://spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=13730&page=49 However, I want to slide the carry handle up more and then cut out part of the carry handle so the clamping feed neck can fit. Kind of ambitious, but i figure summer's here so i have a little bit more time for some stuff.

Hob Hayward
04-19-2010, 12:51 PM
Ah so access via the top even with pliers would be too much trouble?

I'd say just contact a machine shop and see if they can do it. Alamo might do the whole thing for $40, maybe even less.

rayray88
04-19-2010, 01:53 PM
It's not that much of a pain. I was just trying to figure out a way instead of just chopping the top of the bolt just in case during a match your bolt gets stuck or a ball get jammed, or something you have a way to re-cock it. Cause if it's covered by the carry handle it's pretty much a closed, self-contained sytem. And that would suck to get lit up cause you can't re-cock it >_<

Oh and the reason why I'm kind of staying away from Alamo city is because I live in Hawaii and shipping to and from Hawaii is ridiculous :(

rayray88
04-30-2010, 05:03 PM
Hey guys so I just talked with Alamo City and you were right Hob $40 shipped for the entire thing. So basically they're gonna mill out a side slot for the cocking pin then tap, drill and tread both the bolt and striker so that we can replace the top cocking pin with a screw that will sit below the top of the body. So essentially the screw will become the interlocking pin for the bolt and striker and then the striker will be tap, drilled and thread for a side cocking pin. How does that sound to everybody?