View Full Version : Adv & Dis
03-17-2006, 07:08 PM
fellas, thinking about putting a electic trigger on my rodeo with an acs bolts. Is there and problems that i might come by with an eclectic trigger on rodeo?
03-17-2006, 07:53 PM
Nope, none that I can think of.
03-17-2006, 08:29 PM
one... but it's not a big problem ... the striker might wear down a bit ... mechy's wear the striker slower than the electro's
03-17-2006, 08:30 PM
But... that barely matters.
03-17-2006, 08:45 PM
eh ... it does when the striker wears down so much that the dang gun'll never recock ...
03-18-2006, 04:55 AM
yea it is a problem when it wears down alot
03-18-2006, 05:12 AM
Come on fellows, that's not a problem, and if it ever becomes one, you only have to sand the sear to get a sharper edge on it so it'll catch. We're talking hardened steel, boys! Been shooting electros for a long time and NEVER had that problem.
The ONLY problems that you MIGHT have with an electric frame is that it costs more. The cost of the frame, the cost of the paint because you shoot more, and charging or replacing batteries. That and people (newer players) get a bit edgy around people who shoot a lot. You'll definitely have to get a motorized hopper because the ol' gravity feed won't keep up.
You'll definitely have to break the ACS bolt in before you use it. Stick a battle swab in the feed neck and shoot about a thousand times. The spring is a bit stiff when you first get it.
You'll have to watch the electronics when playing around a wet environment (streams and such) although I've never had that problem. Just seal it up where water can't get in. With a lighter switch in the electric frame (like a computer mouse click) you MIGHT get bounce issues, unless the frame has the program built in to stop bounce. But that's hardly an issue either.
As far as striker wear, meh. It might happen, but not enough to cause any problems. Sear wear, sure, but sand it down when that happens.
03-18-2006, 05:23 AM
ok thanks vike for sharing that i thought it would become a big problem thanks for correcting me;)
03-18-2006, 09:12 AM
here's the real problem...not that it's a major one, but will cause you to want to spend money...
Most ESP/Sprint frrames max the ROF at 13 bps. Eventuallly, you will max this and opt for a faster frame/board. Enter the TBoard/XSF Advantage boards. The Board's are $60, plus eyes ($20) and mode chips ($20 more), Tswitch ($15)...eye covers ($20 to $70), 4-40 thread eye cover screws, dremel grinding wheels (to lay the eye wires into the frame), 4-40 thread tap and drill bit....
...then with your upped ROF...the faster you go through paint and air...O-rings...oil/lube...
Stay away from the rocking frame...it's too difficult to reach a high ROF because of the design of the trigger.
...dude...it never ends...
03-18-2006, 11:03 AM
I'd say, either don't buy a new frame, or just buy one used. The real question is... DO you need to be able to lay down more than 13 bps? I don't, but I can, simply because I got a mongoose board which is capped at 21 bps for free from my brother when he got his t-board, maybe you can get someones old pilot board for free or like 10$ But really, I never need to shoot above 8 bps.
03-18-2006, 11:16 AM
elimination by volume.....for those cheating wipers! It's hard to wipe a gallon of paint
03-18-2006, 11:22 AM
That's an argument that's been raging since paintball went electro....is it necessary to shoot so much? It only takes one, blah blah blah.....Well, I have to say this, it may not be necessary, but it sure is fun! And, I guarantee, when you want someone to hold an opponent into their bunker or behind a tree, I like it when there's 15-20 balls per seecond going at them as opposed to 10-12. The sound alone is enough to make the new player (and not so new) want to dig a hole and beat a hasty retreat.....
The real hindrance, as I said before, is going to be the financial end of it. Cost in the frame, the paint you use, the batteries, the upgraded board should you want one (as druid said).