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DRAGON
01-27-2009, 05:36 PM
I haven't posted a thread in quite some time. Things have been a little slow at work but slowly building up lately. I did have a little extra time today to make something I was pondering yesterday as I was at home. We have all types of metals but for the most part deal in stainless steel. The metals come in various shapes and sizes. I was thinking of one of the oval shaped tubings yesterday and this popped into my head:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/dbn71mgd/Todaysproject.jpg

It's a stainless drop forward made of some scrap pieces that were laying around. Simple but effective. I doubt I'll even use this one, it's more like a prelim proto just to get the feel of the idea -

I just cut the oval tubing on a random angle with a jig I made, ground the ends flat, then tig welded a couple pads we use here to the ends. Tig welding fuses parts together with argon gas and electricity so it leaves a little crevice between the parts. I just filled in the gap with a little stainless rod, ground that to flush the parts, greenwheeled that then buffed it to a shine. Since this is just a throwaway I didn't attach any nuts inside the tubing to attach an ASA or drill and tap holes to attach it to the grip frame. Didn't even paste shine it to get all the little scratches out of it either. Still looks OK I suppose -

I want to eventually make a gun stand from stainless steel tubing. I have a few designs in my head, one which is a spider. That's a little too elaborate so I'll prolly just make a design that tilts the marker forward which will make filling the hopper easier and attach a few rings on the side to hold pods for filling. Too many ideas with such little time. That's life - :o

XSiv Force
01-27-2009, 05:38 PM
nice if it was dust black id buy it from ya

DRAGON
01-27-2009, 05:45 PM
nice if it was dust black id buy it from ya

Stainless doesn't like colors attached lol. Most you can do is oxidize it black. You definitely can't anodize it. It's not even magnetic -

XSiv Force
01-27-2009, 05:48 PM
i know....:'(

irishwarrior
01-27-2009, 05:54 PM
Well "stainless" kinda hints at the not being colored easily ;). If you wanted a black that would almost never come off, you could make one out of aluminum and then dip it in HCl (hydrochloric acid). The aluminum reacts with the HCl and turns black. Looks great Dragon, If you ever had the time would you ever consider making a marker body out of the stainless steel?

TheDarkShadow
01-27-2009, 05:59 PM
looks really nice

XSiv Force
01-27-2009, 06:09 PM
:loveeyes: :jawdrop: ITS Irish:wave: Thank you for the tech irish............................................. ...............................

irishwarrior
01-27-2009, 07:25 PM
No problem XSiv ;).

DRAGON
01-27-2009, 07:40 PM
......... If you ever had the time would you ever consider making a marker body out of the stainless steel?

Haha, no waigh. Data would be the first hurdle not to mention expense. I'll stick to parts and simple stuff - ;)

bigred76
01-27-2009, 07:42 PM
Lookin' good, Drago. When you make a dovetail rail, let me know. ;)

DRAGON
01-27-2009, 07:46 PM
Was thinkin how to attach a dovetail to this thing -

TheDarkShadow
01-27-2009, 07:53 PM
i have to say, a stainless steel body would be pretty boss

bigred76
01-27-2009, 08:01 PM
Hmm, could cut a channel down the middle on the bottom with an end-mill bit... And... Uh... Well, I'm a wood kinda guy, so I don't know if you could do this with metal (pretty sure you can), but using a router with the proper shaped bit should cut out the dovetail nicely.

xsvly-fat
01-27-2009, 08:01 PM
Nice. It looks really clean.

DRAGON
01-27-2009, 08:19 PM
Thanks guys......by attach I was refering to weld onto not mill. As stated, I'm lazy lol. Since this piece is hollowed, I'm not sure there'd be enough material to mill it and have safe tolerences anyway. It's solid the way it sets but removing any material from the flanges might not be secure. Hate to go running one way while my tank flies in the other direction - :eek:

bigred76
01-27-2009, 09:45 PM
Yeah, I was thinking that too... Just didn't have enough time before heading out to dinner to completely formulate my thoughts. You could weld a rail mount from a company right onto it, hahaha. That'd be the simplest way. Other than that you can get some square stock and machine one out of that.

oldironmudder
01-27-2009, 09:58 PM
i have to say, a stainless steel body would be pretty boss

Do you know how heavy it would be? But a polished stainless steel Spyder would look really nice.

Muddytaco
01-27-2009, 11:48 PM
You could weld a rail mount from a company right onto it, hahaha. That'd be the simplest way.

You would have to find a stainless dovetail mount since aluminum won't weld to anything other then aluminum.

bigred76
01-28-2009, 01:22 AM
What about using oxyacetylene to fuse the two metals? Everything's gotta melt at a certain point... :confused:

irishwarrior
01-28-2009, 05:53 AM
Aluminum doesn't melt at high temps, it burns. Compared to other metals it has a very low melting point.

oldironmudder
01-28-2009, 08:08 AM
What about getting a rail milled. It would be dead on balls. Then have it tall enough you could weld it without warping it.

Muddytaco
01-28-2009, 12:25 PM
What about using oxyacetylene to fuse the two metals? Everything's gotta melt at a certain point... :confused:

Just b/c its melts does mean it will bond. It physically won't bond with another metal, same with copper. You can weld steel right over top of a penny and when your done you can push the weld right off the top of the coin.

DFSniper
02-02-2009, 02:14 PM
you know what i would really like? a rail w/ offset holes so i dont have to spend $10 on a spyder adapter block. :rolleyes: ;) :D

Splitter
02-16-2009, 10:05 AM
What exactly are your limitations at work? Could you make your own barrel? That would look tight.

DFSniper
02-16-2009, 12:05 PM
you know what i would really like? a rail w/ offset holes so i dont have to spend $10 on a spyder adapter block. :rolleyes: ;) :D

i really like dis guy's idea! anyone else??

Splitter
02-16-2009, 01:33 PM
i really like dis guy's idea! anyone else??

I don't think Spyder likes that idea... $10 spent for every Spyder owner adds up! My Java bottom line kit came with offset holes though...

DFSniper
02-16-2009, 01:46 PM
no, i dont mean kingman as a company, but a certain machinist that has access to all the parts, tools and measurements could whip something up in no time! heck, i almost made my stock drop-forward from my victor into a rail/drop using just a dremel. just havent gotten around to tapping the holes for set screws.

DRAGON
02-16-2009, 06:15 PM
Funny you guys brought this up. Have started on the marker stand in my spare time -

There have been a couple detours though. One I should have, but didn't think about, tubing of different diameters have bend radius limitations, more so with stainless since it's a harder metal than some others. That is to say some of the larger diameter tubings need to be at larger bent radii. So I have to mix different sized tubing for different portions of the stand w/o making it look too out of place. If you try to bend too small a radius it buckles rather than bends. Heat can be an aide but we aren't equipped for that -

Another addition to that is attaching the different sized tubing and making it fit tight for the weld. For instance, how do you attach a 3/4' arch onto the end of a 1" tubing and make it fit tight for weld? 3/4" tubing has a smaller diameter profile than the 1" -

Another thing is dies available. I only have certain radiuses to choose from -

Anyway, the leggs are bent, the barrel holder was bent and I just tagged that together today. Still not welded completely. I still need to plan out the main center body that everything attaches to. I'm just kinda cobbling this all together with an idea w/o any specific dimensions. Fudgemetrics per se -

Stainless barrel? Prolly look koo but waaaaaayyy too heavy -

DFSniper
02-16-2009, 06:18 PM
so you're winging it? sometimes thats the only way to go!

DRAGON
02-16-2009, 06:33 PM
Ya, I just made a few isometric drawings and far as making the parts it's just fit and tag it as I go. Long as it fits most of my markers and they don't fall over it'll be Kosher -