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cov boy
03-06-2006, 12:10 PM
What is a "T-Switch? I was just looking at upgrading my t-board from Scenario Dreams and that the t-switch is a must have upgrade "well so it says"

can sum1 help?

And it comes in 25g or 50g? whats that all about?

sorry but if i dont ask then ill never know.

Also what are "Break Beam eyes" And "bounce beam eyes"

ooglieboogliebob
03-06-2006, 12:50 PM
go here (http://www.google.com) it'll answer all of your questions ... don't be lazy ... read about it

cov boy
03-06-2006, 12:52 PM
didnt help

but thanks

any1 else?

colonel_moo
03-06-2006, 01:04 PM
its probably just a lighter switch, im not sure how different switches can be besides being lighter. id get the 50 gram if you are going to get a new one. 25 grams is too light IMO, and just causes needless bounce.

break beam eyes is when there is a laser going across your breech, and when that laserbeam is broken, the board recognizes that a ball is in the breech. bounce beam, or reflective, is when there is a laser bouncing off the ball, then back to the "eye" where the board then recognizes that there is a ball in the breech. sorry for the poor definitions, but i dont know what else there is to it.

by the way, the "edit" feature is your friend.

cov boy
03-06-2006, 01:34 PM
lol

thanks

thechubbss12
03-06-2006, 03:19 PM
Yea maybe you know this or maybe not... to put in eyes you have to drill for the eyes or eye.

cov boy
03-06-2006, 03:39 PM
I did read something on here about that

druid
03-06-2006, 07:24 PM
electro's use a microswitch behind the trigger to close (complete) a circuit...that's what makes the marker fire. by replacing the switch with a lighter one, allows the user to walk the trigger faster because the grams=the resistance needed to close the switch. A stock switch is around 250 grams...going to 50 grams means this switch is 1/5th as hard to close. A T-Switch is just a lighter switch with wire leads on it that you have to wire into the old clip to mount to the board...and it is compatable with the stock boards on spyders.

A 25 gram switch is way to light...either for a stock trigger or even an aftermarker because if you decide to tourney, it won't pass the "bunp" test (smack the back of the gun to see if it fires)...get the 50 if you get one at all.

GOING HERE (http://www.ottersccustoms.com/spyder.html) ...not google...will help you better than all of us can....

eyes have been explained above...that a better set of answers?

cov boy
03-07-2006, 12:05 AM
druid-

Thats the sort of help i was looking for, thank you.
so on a 05 electra rocking trigger i should just keep it stock?

druid
03-07-2006, 12:47 AM
the Rocking Trigger is an entirely different animal. First, there are 2 switches and they are each smaller than the TSwitch. Second, they are already (I believe) lightened to like 75 grams or so.

Your finger speed isn't necessarily the problem...the frame is. You have to spread your 2 fingers too far to comfortably walk the trigger. I suggest selling or trading away your Rocking frame and getting an ESP/Sprint frame and TBoarding it...and TSwitch it at the same time. Then replace any stock trigger (usually a chrome-plated brass) with a lighter, faster one like a Sweetspot, Shocktech, NDZ or similar type trigger. Since aftermarket triggers are comparable in weight (within their classifications - aluminum or delrin), it's really only a matter of choosing the design or style that you like. The "rollerball" or "bearing" triggers are reported upon equally....some say they are the shizzzzz, some say the bearings make no difference. You'll have to decide who you believe...a 14 year-old with parents+money=attitude...or those of us that are older (check my sig...LOL) and tend to be more analytical or at least fair in our observations. This isn't to say that there aren't crappy triggers out there, though...and consider their construction in your purchase. Delrin/nylon/nylatron=plastic......plastic breaks...especially where they put 'backslop' adjusting screws. Personally, I suggest an aluminum trigger. You can magnet-mod them as per Otter's site and they are great.
The whole rocking trigger thing is a marketing scheme...even the best players can't pull 30 bps...that's why they created cheater boards to begin with. The TBoard is really all you'll ever need. With the correct settings (which you will have to configure for you and your marker), semiauto+fast fingers=better than burst/full auto. Trust me. I TBoarded my Esprit and I outshot a ZBoarded egg...on SEMI. BTW...I'm TBoarding my Ion...what does THAT tell you? TBoards in ESP frames outperform the Rocking trigger, simply because of the trigger design.

cov boy
03-07-2006, 01:09 AM
I think the best thing for me to do is to keep it stock and just upgrade to a better marker, but dont know what to get? i'v only ever had one gun (this one) and dont know whats hot and whats not, As i have to work for my money and not get it from my Mummy and Daddy and after i have payed out all the bill, taken care of my son it dont give alot left over to spend on me, so i would have to sell my gun and then buy a new one. i will spend about £350 on one.
What would you get?

DRAGON
03-07-2006, 03:06 AM
£350? We are in the US my friend - :dodgy:

cov boy
03-07-2006, 04:03 AM
so thats about $450-$500?

druid
03-07-2006, 08:52 AM
I love Angels but can never afford them...you can find some used ones here in the sales thread or at http://www.angel-owners.com/index.php....
Indian Creek Products (Promaster, etc), non-vision Shockers, you can get like 1 extremely upped autococker or 2 stock A/C's for that price range...stay away from the trilogy though...you may run into problems with non-UK boards though...Ions are also made with UK boards...you can up the crap out of them...

colonel_moo
03-07-2006, 12:50 PM
As i have to work for my money and not get it from my Mummy and Daddy

just like pretty much everyone on this forum :rolleyes:

well, if its 450 to 500, i have to yet again advise for a matrix. 450 to 500 can get you a nice proto matrix, or DM4. both are pretty much the same, the proto is a little lighter, but the DM4 looks cooler IMO. both work the same, so thats not an issue.

if you dont want to spend that much money, the DM3 is a nice option. works basically the same as all the other matrixes, but its bigger/bulker. however, it they shoot smoother and have less kick as a result. if you can deal with the weight, id suggest the DM3 for those two reasons (price and no kick/smooth cycle... mostly price). plus, ive never had a single problem with my matrix, and i've had it for about a year, so ill toss reliability in there. for $350 (i donno what that is in your crazy currency :D ) you can get a fully upped DM3 with Tadao, and maybe an upgraded bolt kit.


if you're not a matrix guy like me, the alien interceptor is also a nice option. very tiny, fast gun. the company is little known, but they are nice guns.

also, the ICD freestyle is a nice gun from my experience, and also the AKA viking is good, and they are both in your price range.

by the way, all those prices are USED prices. buying used is defiantely the way to go, you can get much MUCH more for your money, just be careful when trading online.

cov boy
03-07-2006, 02:19 PM
Thanks that was alot of help.
What sort of money should i ask for my electra 05 like new with case?

cov boy
03-07-2006, 02:21 PM
I love Angels but can never afford them...you can find some used ones here in the sales thread or at http://www.angel-owners.com/index.php...

Thanks for this.;)

cov boy
03-07-2006, 02:23 PM
(i donno what that is in your crazy currency :D )

:confused:

druid
03-07-2006, 07:58 PM
you can probably get about a hundred pounds for it...maybe 120...I know it wont go for more than $150-175 US

...Oh...and tell the Monarchy that those gold pieces are a pain to carry;)