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View Full Version : Opinions on Low Blow bolt and Titanium Striker


nicklenn
06-02-2008, 08:06 PM
First I want to thank everyone for all their contribution. This is a great forum and I've spent the last couple days reading through posts. I'm pretty new into paintball (last 3mo) but I'm an avid "research" dork and like doing things properly the first time.

Looking to see if anyone has used the Alamo City Low Blow bolt and your opinions on it. My biggest concern is chops. I've got the ACS bolt in there now and combined with a Eggy3 hopper and matched barrel/paint I virtually NEVER chop. I don't want to sacrafice that reliability or accuracy I've currently got just for a little added distance. Also, I like the idea of the o-rings on the bolt which should allow me to drop my pressure a little bit. I'm not a huge LP junky thriving to get as low pressure as possible but I like the stability of having the gun at a consistant PSI. I had also considered just cutting my ACS bolt like the low blow but figured I'd get some opinions first. I also have the means to lathe some o-ring grooves in my ACS bolt as well. I would have already done it by now if I had a spare. Also considering going to a lighter striker. Looking for opinions on the best one. Mostly just trying to reduce recoil. my gun setup is below. Thanks for all your opinions and help.

~nick

Spyder Pilot ACS
PMI regulator (it's not a Palmers I know but hey, it was free)
32* VA, Bob Long pressure gauge, stock LP chamber
Opened up ASA ports, VA, and the ports in the regulator
Shooting at around 330psi at 285fps
Modified stock pin and valve
32* spring kit
Lightened and polished striker
Eggy3 hopper w/trinity feedneck
JT Pro One 14" barrel
Evil Barrel Kit (on the way)
Remote 20oz Co2

florios
06-02-2008, 09:43 PM
well my pilot has a bolt made of metal i dont know if its titanium or not but it has the o rings and every thing ive never choped a ball yet and i have a velocity viewloader
the guy at the store said it was the cheapest one so i dunno i usualy shoot at 14-16 bps (with fingers) im not amazingly fast with my fingers but i shoot faster then my stock boards automatic

Sandman_Bravo
06-03-2008, 07:02 AM
I remember some time back a few guys here had tried the low blow bolt with mixed reactions. Some claimed to get chops, some liked it, and some notice no real gains in distance or accuracy. Quite frankly, you could mod out the acs to a low blow. I personally don't see how the concept would be viable and this is why:
The objective is to apply a "spin" on the ball to get a longer trajectory and/or better accuracy. As anyone with an aftermarket barrel knows, optimal accuracy is achieved with a snug paintball-to-barrel match. Soooo, if any spin were introduced to the ball in the breach before the barrel, it would soon be lost as it travelled down the barrel. The only method I'm aware of that has achieved a "spin" is the Flatline barrel which introduces the spin in said barrel before the ball leaves the marker on it's flightpath. Taking all this into consideration, one would logically assume that the low blow concept would be a slim possibility.
I personally beleive that if one is looking for a better more consistant trajectory/grouping, money is better spent on a quality barrel than a bolt. The fact that you are running a reg will give more consistant gas flow with little pressure fluctuations so the next area of upgrade would be the barrel.
That's just my 2 cents, so good luck with whatever you try.

Edit: I just remembered that the Apex tip also puts a spin on the ball, but that also happens after the bolt/breech.

nicklenn
06-03-2008, 08:37 AM
Yeah, I have to agree with your way of thinking. I shoot either Recons w/.686 barrel or Marbs with my Jt Pro one .689. Both offer a great fit and exceptional accuracy and I can easily see how any backspin that was created by the low blow bolt would be lost by the time the ball left the barrel. What do you think about the whole o-ring or no o-ring setup. Eventually I'll probably go to a T board w/eyes but for now I like the safety of the ACS bolt. I just wish it had O-rings on it. Then again, if everyone thinks that there's a bolt out there worth upgrading to that won't chop I'm all game. Thanks for your input BTW.

~nick

Sandman_Bravo
06-03-2008, 05:56 PM
I've said it over and over again; I put in a Bandit bolt and have had no chops after getting the LP tuned in. In addition, I've had no more problems with losing my cocking pin. I personally would recommend this bolt with o-rings. They have other versions as well- w/out o-rings, low pressure, high pressure, etc.

nicklenn
06-03-2008, 07:45 PM
I've said it over and over again; I put in a Bandit bolt and have had no chops after getting the LP tuned in. In addition, I've had no more problems with losing my cocking pin. I personally would recommend this bolt with o-rings. They have other versions as well- w/out o-rings, low pressure, high pressure, etc.

Sorry, I must have missed that. Thanks a lot for the input. I really appreciate it.

~nick

RellikLaerec
06-03-2008, 09:42 PM
I have a titanium hammer and it does drop the kick a lot! The problem I ran into, and it might only be me, is I've lost about 15-20fps in velocity. It might be in my set up. Going to mess with it again now that my air leak problem is fixed. I think if I get some sealant on the valve screw it might help.
My questions are, will a rear cocking bolt work on the pilot? Mine doesn't have the little back plate covering the bolt. I plan to figure out a way to put a beaver on it so I won't get smacked. And which bolt on the bandit bolt shop do I need? (either rear or top cocking)
Thanks!

Sandman_Bravo
06-04-2008, 02:39 PM
Sorry, I must have missed that. Thanks a lot for the input. I really appreciate it.
~nick


No need to apologize. I hadn't posted in this thread on it; what I meant, or should have said, is I have that I've posted many times on these forums the virtues of the Bandit bolt. I'm sure the Alamo's are quality units and in the end it comes down to preference and what has been found to work, and the Bandit simply has worked for me.

nicklenn
06-04-2008, 06:42 PM
No need to apologize. I hadn't posted in this thread on it; what I meant, or should have said, is I have that I've posted many times on these forums the virtues of the Bandit bolt. I'm sure the Alamo's are quality units and in the end it comes down to preference and what has been found to work, and the Bandit simply has worked for me.

gotcha. one more question.... with the pressure that i'm running at (around 375psi i think) should i get the lp or hp bolt? I'm not really sure whether to consider that high or low pressure. i think the addition of the new bolt and titanium striker will make a big difference. i wish i could go nitro but there's nowhere close to refill and we've got a Co2 fill station here at work so it's not really practical.

~nick

nicklenn
06-04-2008, 09:33 PM
I have a titanium hammer and it does drop the kick a lot! The problem I ran into, and it might only be me, is I've lost about 15-20fps in velocity. It might be in my set up. Going to mess with it again now that my air leak problem is fixed. I think if I get some sealant on the valve screw it might help.
My questions are, will a rear cocking bolt work on the pilot? Mine doesn't have the little back plate covering the bolt. I plan to figure out a way to put a beaver on it so I won't get smacked. And which bolt on the bandit bolt shop do I need? (either rear or top cocking)
Thanks!

that's cool to know about the kick being a lot less. i'm pretty new to this but i would think that you should be able to gain the velocity back by doing some spring changes.

from what i've read you can put a rear cocking bolt on the pilot. sorry but i can't be of help on which bolt you'd need either. maybe sandman could help with that.

~nick

Sandman_Bravo
06-05-2008, 03:16 AM
I have a titanium hammer and it does drop the kick a lot! The problem I ran into, and it might only be me, is I've lost about 15-20fps in velocity. It might be in my set up. Going to mess with it again now that my air leak problem is fixed. I think if I get some sealant on the valve screw it might help.
My questions are, will a rear cocking bolt work on the pilot? Mine doesn't have the little back plate covering the bolt. I plan to figure out a way to put a beaver on it so I won't get smacked. And which bolt on the bandit bolt shop do I need? (either rear or top cocking)
Thanks!

With a lighter striker there is less weight (inertia) moving forward to strike the spring loaded valve pin, so it doesn't open as far or for as long (dwell) as with the heavier stock hammer. That is why there is a loss in velocity when a lighter hammer is installed. The solution is a lighter valve spring and/or a heavier main spring. I have the Dark Horizons Ti hammer and had to play around with different springs. Don't overlook Otter's Low Pressure pages, all of this is covered.
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/project.html
Good luck.