View Full Version : Spider imagine 03 leaks

05-05-2008, 12:35 PM
Im new around this forum and thought this would be a good place to come with my problems. A week ago i went to play paintball for the first time since last summer and i noticed on the first round that i would get 2 or 3 good shots then i could hear the solinoid click, but the bolt would move. it would only work again if i pulled the bolt back (even though it was already cocked) or turn off the safety and turn it back on.

Then today i noticed that with air hooked up, I could hear air faintly hissing from within the barrel. But after i cock the bolt it would stop leaking, and it would fire a couple of shots, then start irratically fireing again.

Any help/advice is greatly appriciated

05-05-2008, 02:22 PM
You're going to need to oil it, it sounds like. Rip down the gun by holding the back cap to the marker, then pulling out the pin that holds the back cap on. Be careful, it's under spring tension, so it will shoot off if you don't hold it. After you pull out all the internals from the back, wipe them down with paper towels and put a couple drops of oil on each of the orings, and a drop on any metal part on the bolt that rubs against the body (just a precaution against wear and tear). Put the internals back into the body the way they came out. You're going to have to turn on the trigger frame and "shoot" the gun twice to get the hammer/striker back into the body, so turn on the gun when doing that and put force on the back cap to get the internals back in.

05-05-2008, 02:45 PM
Well i did oil the Bolt, Striker and there it's still leaking air through the bolt. i'm beginning to think i may have a bad o ring somewhere, or the problem is deeper in the gun

05-05-2008, 02:47 PM
may want to take a look at the orings on the valve... Also what is your setup? Stock? Shoot me a pm...

05-05-2008, 02:56 PM
Yea probably should of mentioned that, yes every thing is stock right now, except for the barrel.

05-05-2008, 09:31 PM
OK, still leaking through the barrel you have two options: oiling the cupseal or replacing it altogether. To oil the cupseal, take off the barrel and hopper, point the marker downwards and put two or three drops of oil into the bottomline adapter. Cock the marker and screw in the air source (CO2 or HPA) and fire about ten shots off.

If the cupseal is still having issues, buy a replacement Spyder cupseal from your local paintball store/proshop. To replace it, hold the front block to the marker (it -- as well -- is under spring pressure) and take out the retaining screw on the bottom of the marker, it's the one furthest forward. When the front block comes off, tilt the marker forward so that the valve spring and pin with the white cupseal on it comes out the front. It might need "minor encouragement," but don't get too rough with it. You don't want to get those parts dirty if at all possible. Take the white cupseal off the valve pin and just replace it with the new one.

What most likely is happening with the valve is that the spring for the hammer is harder than the spring for the valve, and is opening it slightly. Cocking the marker before airing it up will normally resolve that issue.

05-06-2008, 11:11 AM
Ok i did the oil method it didn't work. Although when i fired the shots there was a nice blue smoke that came out from around my E grip and the barrel, which doesn't sound good.
But ill try taking out the cupseal next.

EDIT* If i can get this one fixed im probably going to go buy a VS or an RS model, and save this as a backup.
And i just realized i spelled Spyder wrong :(

06-05-2008, 08:54 AM
have u resently takin it apart?
if u did you might of put the bellbody in backwards pm me if you took it apart ill tell you what to do

06-08-2008, 04:00 PM
Tom, if it is in the valve area it may not be the cup seal. It might be the edge of the valve where the cup seal seats when closed. I have had a similar problem. I removed the valve and gently turned the seal side against some 600 grit sand paper. Gently milling the edge. It took several attempts of sanding and reassembling before it worked.The valve had a tiny scratch that was not visible but could be felt with a fingernail. Remember GENTLY. This happened to me at a scenario game in Kingdom City,Mo. a few years back.

06-08-2008, 05:51 PM
i have the same problem with BOTH my valves, and even after changing cup seals and swapping valve stems they leak. one had been doing it for a while and the other just started. i think theres some damage on the face of the valve.

the blue smoke is CO2, but it shouldnt be coming out of your grip. sounds like something isnt sealed right...

06-09-2008, 11:26 AM
Try placing sand paper on hard smooth surface. Set the valve on the paper and rotate left ans right nice and easy. Like I said earlier it took me several tries.