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PipeRain
04-06-2008, 09:20 PM
So, I've been wrasslin' with my MR2, dealing with breach chops and barrel-breaks galore. After breaking in my ACS bolt thoroughly, and going to a force-fed hopper, the breach breaks are a thing of the past. However, barrel breaks continued. Once enough slop wound up in the barrel, it would wind up coating the bolt and slowing it down to the point where the marker wouldn't cycle. Nothing is so shameful as a marker that will only push a ball about 18 inches out the muzzle, with a full HPA tank. So, I ordered up an Alamo 2 O-Ring bolt. This helped with two things.

Blow-back
Keeping the sticky stuff only on the front third or so of the bolt


Still however, the barrel breaks continued to be a problem, so I rounded up a bunch of different paint and decided to test them in the barrel, both manually, and under "Power", and here is what I found :

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1192/balltest01xe0.jpg

Test criteria :

Each barrel was thoroughly cleaned in hot water, then dried and blown through with compressed air at 125 PSI until the bores were completely clean and all holes in the abrrel were free of water, paint and shell debris.
10 balls from each lot were selected at random. The same balls were used in both barrels.
Balls were dropped, each in succession, into the breech end of the barrel.
If the ball stopped without fully entering the breech, but could be pressed in with a fingertip without risk of breaking, it would then be blown through by mouth.
Balls that fell through cleanly (Without blowing them thru) were considered a "Pass".
Balls that stopped at any point in the barrel, but could be blown through were considered a "Pass".
Balls that could not enter the breech without risk of breaking were considered a "Fail".
Balls that could not be blown through the barrel were considered a "Fail".
"Yes" or "No" for suitability was based on no more than 1 ball failing the drop through test.


Once this was all completed, a backstop was setup in my shop and some of the balls were shot through my MR2, using each barrel, into the backstop. If barrel breaks occured, once that round was completed for that barrel, the barrel was cleaned in the same manner as described above.

The following were tested in the marker :

Marbellizer
White Box
ProCaps Rec-Sport
Draxxus Blaze


The Spyder Paint was not tested in the marker due to time constraints.

All of the tested balls suffered 2 or 3 barrel breaks in both barrels when 30 balls were fired on "Semi", save for the Draxxus Blaze, which suffered no barrel breaks in either barrel and the Marbellizer which suffered one break in each barrel. On "Burst" performance was about the same.

The worst performing on "Burst" was the ProCaps. The marker could recover from the first barrel break, but after a second the marker essentially turned into an HVLP paint sprayer, in both barrels. The "White Box" performed about as expected, with the J&J Barrel recovering from barrel breaks only somewhat better than the stock MR2 barrel. The Marbellizer didn't seem to run noticeably better, the Draxxus Blaze slightly better.

On "Full-Auto", (Fired continuously) the ProCaps almost instantly became useless. Within 10 balls, the barrel was fully coated with paint and choked with debris, and every ball broke after that. The White Box performed nearly as well as the Marbellizer, both fired approximately 45-50 balls before the barrel was breaking every third ball or so. The J&J Barrel did seem to shoot through the goop slightly better than the Spyder barrel, but both were pretty messy.

I thought that it was sorta interesting that the Marbellizer performed so poorly in the manual tests, but was one of the better performers in the gun. I suppose more than anything else it shows up the weakness of the test regimen, and the variances in paintball technology, something I am still getting used to.

At no point during the test did I suffer a breech break, and other than the barrel breaks, the hopper and marker performed flawlessly; no blow-back, no bolt slowing etc.

I realize that this is not necessarily the most "Scientific" test, as I have no way to measure the balls or the barrels for diameter or "true", but I hope it does help at least a bit.

Ace24
04-06-2008, 10:17 PM
There are paint and barrel bore sizes around here somewhere... that might help you a little. The J&J will be a .688/.687 bore.

bigred76
04-07-2008, 10:20 AM
www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html

www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html

;)

slim and shady
04-07-2008, 04:22 PM
Darn Red here I thought that this would be my first oprotunity to show the new list you showed me!