DFSniper
03-30-2008, 06:03 PM
so i posted this on pbn, but i know a lot of you don't check there, so...
so i was typing up a tutorial on how to move your esp frame forward. while typing it up for the second person, i realized that if you were to shorten the length of the striker, body, and possibly spring, you could have a spyder 1 inch shorter than normal. to explain it a little more, i'm going to repost the frame moving tutorial:
you need to mod your striker so that the lip is more towards the front and file off the lip in the back since your sear is going to be sitting further forward.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017585021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017585048.jpg
you need to cut the groove in the body more because of the sear. then you'll probably have to cut off the piece shown to allow for the trigger set screw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254081.jpg
then you hollow out the top of the ESP frame to allow for the curve of the body.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254088.jpg
then you drill a hole inside the trigger guard for the frame screw, and hollowed out the original hole for the VA screw. its a good idea to not go all the way through, so that the screw can support the frame too. when Tselanne tapped a hole in the back for the rear frame screw, he said it came right up against the U shape at the end of the sear slot, but the front two screws were enough to support the frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34016212898.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34016212833.jpg
all pics courtesy of Tselanne at PBN.
so i was typing up a tutorial on how to move your esp frame forward. while typing it up for the second person, i realized that if you were to shorten the length of the striker, body, and possibly spring, you could have a spyder 1 inch shorter than normal. to explain it a little more, i'm going to repost the frame moving tutorial:
you need to mod your striker so that the lip is more towards the front and file off the lip in the back since your sear is going to be sitting further forward.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017585021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017585048.jpg
you need to cut the groove in the body more because of the sear. then you'll probably have to cut off the piece shown to allow for the trigger set screw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254081.jpg
then you hollow out the top of the ESP frame to allow for the curve of the body.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34017254088.jpg
then you drill a hole inside the trigger guard for the frame screw, and hollowed out the original hole for the VA screw. its a good idea to not go all the way through, so that the screw can support the frame too. when Tselanne tapped a hole in the back for the rear frame screw, he said it came right up against the U shape at the end of the sear slot, but the front two screws were enough to support the frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34016212898.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/DFSniper/Paintball%20Customizing/34016212833.jpg
all pics courtesy of Tselanne at PBN.