View Full Version : valve screw help
03-29-2008, 08:15 PM
I am trying to install the New Designz high flow valve on my MR2, but am having trouble removing the valve screw, #15. I have tried every allen wrench I have but none of them fit. When I looked at the screw, it doesn't even appear to have a head of any sort and looks totally round. I bought my gun brand new and no one has touched this screw before so it isn't stripped out. What is the screw, and what do I need to remove it?
03-29-2008, 09:28 PM
It's either a metric headed allen screw or a flat head screw driver. That's all I ever remember Spyder using.
03-30-2008, 12:39 AM
All that I have ever seen are flathead brass screws on the bottem. There is a pin that keeps the valve from being pushed to far to the back of the gun. It does not need to be removed. Just use a pencil (eraser end) to push the valve out the front from the back. See otters spyder pages for more info on this.
04-02-2008, 02:17 PM
thanks for the help guys, I got it off.
now I have a problem. I installed the New Designz valve fine, but whenever I put the high flow valve stem that it comes with, it leaks like crazy. Putting the stock valve stem back in stops the leak. any suggestions on how to stop the leak so I can use the New Designz one, or are there other valve stems that you would recommend?
BTW, I am using the stock valve spring and for the striker the lightest Shocktech spring. Do I need a different valve spring?
04-02-2008, 03:20 PM
I tried the valve stem from my old Viewloader Genesis II that I had lying around for a parts gun, and this valve stem doesn't leak. However, it is extremely thin compared to the other 2 valve stems. Top is stock Spyder, middle is the New Designz, and bottom is the Viewloader one. My question is, since the Viewloader is so much thinner than the others, would there be any downside to using it? Or would it perform the best?
It would most likely perform the best as long as it doesn't leak. It was probably the cupseal that was causing the leak on the others not the actual pin but if the viewloader setup is working you should be fine. You just have to make sure the thinner surface is strong enough to handle the force of the striker hitting it.
04-03-2008, 08:11 PM
Your leak is from your cup seal. It screws on and off the stem. I would try swapping your old cup seal on to your new valve pin. I think that very thin pin is to thin. Part of the pin needs to fit pretty tight to the valve to keep everything lined up. See Otter's explanation below. You should really review his spyder pages.
Sand or file down the valve pin. There is already a flat surface there. You would want to do the other side about equal. Instead of sanding down to equal that little notch, do the entire quadrant of the pin. Make sure you do just one side and not all around. You need some roundness to keep the valve pin centered straight in the valve. You can use heavy grit at first. But as you get to the size you want, use higher grit to smooth out the roughness. This allows more airflow to the striker face.
04-03-2008, 10:04 PM
:yeahthat: Just swap out the cup seals, the one on the HP valve pin's prolly bad. If it still leaks, perform the modification above this post to the stock pin. Also, try oiling the HP valve pin's cupseal. Didn't see you say you had, so I'm just making sure we're covering that base.
04-05-2008, 03:26 PM
I swapped out the cup seals and it works fine now. thanks for the help guys
10-21-2008, 09:40 PM
i have tried the pencil trick and it is not budging. any ideas?
10-22-2008, 03:41 AM
barrel swab or wooden dowel + hammer
10-22-2008, 09:49 AM
^ What he said. Just make sure you are pushing the valve out towards the barrel from the back of the marker (where the striker would be). Also make sure that the little brass set screw is all the way out. You must remove the trigger frame to get to it.