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Molibya
12-10-2007, 06:02 PM
I cant get this dam tank valve off the co2 to install my anti-siphon tube. any suggestions on takin it off? i had my freind hold it while turning the valve with the wrench, but it wont even budge. any suggestions?

oldironmudder
12-10-2007, 06:08 PM
Ive heard that heating it will help but I would NOT apply heat to the tank. Try a good strap wrench around the tank & a good open end around the valve.

Molibya
12-10-2007, 06:14 PM
i already tried hot boiling water on it...kept it on there for bout 3 mins.....then tried it and still nothing.

one other thing, i think the valve is in there like super super tight, cuz you know when theres a paint mark on the valve and tank in a shape of a T (the safety precaution mark), the valve is like 6 centimeters past it to the right, so its on there pretty tight.

oldironmudder
12-10-2007, 06:19 PM
Im just wondering, are you turning it the right way? Righty tighty - lefty loosey

Try boiling it a little longer. You could take it to shop & have them install it.

Molibya
12-10-2007, 06:23 PM
ya ya i know, doin it right
only got 1 shop here and they dont even know wat a anti-siphon tube is

kramernator
12-10-2007, 07:58 PM
hey where can you get an anti siphon tube?

Sandman_Bravo
12-10-2007, 09:37 PM
-just a heads up; we have done several anti-syphons and they don't always fit on all tank brands. I want to say that pure energy have a threaded inside that accepts the anti-syphon but catalina don't.
Kramernator: you can buy anti-syphons from Sundragon or E-bay and I think action village carries them too. Here ya go:
http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintball_antisiphon_inst.html
Good luck!

Kenny_McCormic
12-11-2007, 06:00 AM
Put the valve in a vice and warm the neck of the tank with a hair drier until its war to the touch, then grab the tank and twist.

druid
12-11-2007, 07:39 AM
You need to heat the bottle neck to about 150-200* and for several-10 minutes to char the LockTite that's holding it in. A hair drier isn't going to do that (unless Tim "the toolman" Taylor built it).

I seriously suggest you have a proshop perform the work and it only costs a few bucks - but if you're Hell-bent on doing it yourself...

I used a Propane torch on mine and this is what I did...BUT I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW THIS UP. THIS WORK IS DANGEROUS AND SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY A CERTIFIED AIRSMITH. IF YOU DO THIS WRONG, YOU COULD BLOW YOURSELF IN HALF. Still feel like doing it yourself?

+ Mark the tank neck and valve so you know where you are bending the end of the tube to. This also helps you to realign them properly.
+ stick the valve in a wood-padded, bench-mounted vice (upside down).
+ Ignite the torch and keep it on it's LOWEST POSSIBLE FLAME.
+ DO NOT touch the flame to the bottle neck...keep the flame SEVERAL inches away from the neck.
+ Have a second, strong and sturdy dude WEARING LEATHER WELDER'S GLOVES...trying to unscrew the bottle as you heat it. A 'quick snap unscrewing method" generally works very well.
+ AS SOON AS the valve starts to unscrew, REMOVE THE HEAT. There's a hige, rubber washer in there that sits in a gland on the bottle neck.
+ QUICKLY finish unscrewing the bottle from the valve before the Locktite re-grips the threads.

+ Allow the bottle AND the valve to COOL NATURALLY.

+ Use a brass-bristled brush and dental pick to clean the threads on both the bottle AND the valve. Make sure there's no debris INSIDE the tank.
+ There's a bleeder/antilaunch hole in the threaded area of the valve...pick that clean as well.
+ Install your antisiphon and bend the tube up to the witness mark of the valve. That witness mark should be at the top of the valve WHEN IT'S MOUNTED IN THE MARKER'S ASA.
+ Add NEW RED LOCKTITE to the last 4 threads, let it wick all the way around those threads and reinstall. REALIGN THOSE WITNESS MARKS ON THE NECK AND VALVE.

LET THE BOTTLE SIT FOR 72 HOURS SO THE lOCKTITE HAS TIME TO CURE.

Molibya
12-11-2007, 10:16 AM
is there a place where i can send it to to have it installed for me? or any of yall? cuz this is annoying as hell. dont wanna buy a pre installed one cuz it might not fit on it.....if i could send it to someone to install it for me, i could just put a mark on the tank to tell which side is up on my marker

another question druid since you look like u know ur stuff, would boiling water work on it?
(btw, dont got a blow torch)

bigred76
12-11-2007, 01:10 PM
I think Druid'll do it for a nominal fee. At least, he used to... I don't know if he will now. PM him and ask, he's normally a nice (:dodgy:) guy.


A hair drier isn't going to do that (unless Tim "the toolman" Taylor built it).
You called? :D

Molibya
12-11-2007, 03:04 PM
ok i got it off finally (used somebody in the university to help, engineering student, had some tools.....GEEKS!)

tried to take the nut thats on the bottom of the valve to install the tube, BLEH! wont come out, ill keep tryin tho, im kinda shavin the metal off of it too, thats not good

DRAGON
12-11-2007, 09:27 PM
(btw, dont got a blow torch)

Good, that way there's no chance you will weaken the metal to the point to where it will explode when you or someone else fills it nor melt/deform the o-ring where the tank and valve meet. I highly discourage using an open flame on tanks period. Most people look better w/o a piece of shrapnel embedded in their forehead. :eek: Boiled water will work just fine if you just give it a chance to work. A pro will use a strap wrench and vice plain and simple. -

Molibya
12-12-2007, 06:46 PM
Ok just came upon the new problem. The nut thats on the bottom of the tank valve that i have to take off to install the anti-siphon tube is damaged. Ive been trying to take it out with the allen wrench for like 3 hours and that sucker wont budge. Now the allen wrench won't even fit in it, the whole (originally a hexagon) is now a complete full circle because of me trying to take it out. Any suggestions guys? I really just want to get this dam thing over with.

oldironmudder
12-12-2007, 07:24 PM
Easy out to get it out.

Molibya
12-12-2007, 07:28 PM
get that from lowes? how does it work?

btw oldironmudder, thx for all the help

oldironmudder
12-12-2007, 07:38 PM
its like a backwards drill bit that 'bites' the fitting while the drill is turning left. So when it bites & turns the fitting it unscrews it.

Im sure lowes would carry them. Just about any hardware store would.

bigred76
12-12-2007, 09:58 PM
:yeahthat: I'm sure that they'd have an easy-out kit with an included drill bit. Just drill out the screw, then use a crescent wrench (not a drill) to unscrew the nut.

SparkyGT
12-13-2007, 08:45 AM
maybe the allen screw has been loctited in, usually they arent too bad to remove

Molibya
12-13-2007, 10:29 AM
ya it is loctited in, red stuff all around the nut.....gonna buy a easy out today and try it

OtterSC
12-13-2007, 11:16 AM
sometimes, you just gotta use some heat to soften the red stuff.

Sandman_Bravo
12-13-2007, 12:23 PM
Wow, not to hijack the thread but.. you have just been helped by a legend. It's not everyday we see the author of "The Paintball Bible" on here!

Kenny_McCormic
12-13-2007, 02:58 PM
Yea he doesn't come around here much.

Molibya
12-13-2007, 03:38 PM
o cool, i was wonderin was this the same otter that has that site otterscustom. very good site. well moment of truth, bout to go out to buy a easy-out kit, ill be back and post what happened later on tonight

Molibya
12-13-2007, 07:32 PM
Well, bought one of those easy-out bit drills (another brand tho, same thing the guy told me) and the dam nut still won't budge. Tried putting a lighter on the red loctite too without any success. I'll try to take this valve to some kind of workshop or something, maybe they can help

bigred76
12-13-2007, 10:14 PM
Hmm, normally it'll work. What went wrong exactly with it? :confused:

druid
12-14-2007, 01:19 AM
he stripped the allen wrench port when he phailed to heat the nut...

Time fer a new valve bud.

And yes...I still do antisiphons for a nominal fee...but it's cheaper if he has the local proshop do it (WHICH IS WHAT HE WAS TOLD TO DO IN THE FIRST PLACE). For me to do it, he'd have to pay shipping to and from, plus parts, plus my time.

Molibya
12-14-2007, 06:17 AM
...but it's cheaper if he has the local proshop do it (WHICH IS WHAT HE WAS TOLD TO DO IN THE FIRST PLACE).

i already told u that the local shop here doesnt even know what an anit-siphon is.

and no, i dont need a new valve, that easy-out is really good, its just my drill is pretty weak. gonna have someone heat the valve for me at the work shop and use a stronger drill.

druid
12-14-2007, 11:03 AM
i already told u that the local shop here doesnt even know what an anit-siphon is.

and no, i dont need a new valve, that easy-out is really good, its just my drill is pretty weak. gonna have someone heat the valve for me at the work shop and use a stronger drill.

Hrm...I musta missed that. Sorry.

DO NOT USE A DRILL WITH AN EASY OUT!!!.

Can you post a pic of the teeth on the easy out? There are 2 different styled gripping threads and I want to see which one yo've got.

Basically, you use a hammer and LIGHTLY TAP the easy out into the part you are removing and using a wrench or ratcheting socket, turn it out BY HAND.

If you use a drill, it's speed and torque will make your situation worse by shredding the brass away with the easy out.

Listen to druid...druid is wise :)

Molibya
12-14-2007, 12:35 PM
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/molibya/DSC00084.jpg


already used that drill because ppl told me to....i dont ask questions i just did it. they told me to get easy out, and i went ahead and bought it, no questions asked.

bigred76
12-15-2007, 12:45 AM
Druid is wise, but an *******. ;) Don't take it personally, he is like that with everyone. Although... I did say something on the previous page about not using a drill... :questionicon:

I'm sure that they'd have an easy-out kit with an included drill bit. Just drill out the screw, then use a crescent wrench (not a drill) to unscrew the nut.

Well, try what Druid said, it should work. ;)

druid
12-15-2007, 07:45 AM
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/molibya/DSC00084.jpg


already used that drill because ppl told me to....i dont ask questions i just did it. they told me to get easy out, and i went ahead and bought it, no questions asked.

God I'm glad it is that styed easyout....

Alright. Mount the valve into a padded vice and heat it to crack the LockTite.
Do what Drago says :dodgy: and use the frikking hair dryer...then like a bazzillion minutes later when it's 150*-200*, set that easy out inside the hole and SEMI-LIGHTLY give it ONE TAP with a hammer. You only want to tap it hard enogh for the bit to slightly bite into the material nut. If you hit it too hard, it will stretch the nut and actually bind it harder than you can get out.
Using a crescent or socket wrench on the end of the easy out (socket is better for this), turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE while putting moderate downward force on the bit. Make sure the force is straight down...not tilted to an angle at all because you can snap the easy out. Having a buddy/family member keeping the heat on the nut should aid in it's removal.
Remember...it's got to be 200* for a few minutes (too hot to touch) for the LockTite to give way...

Molibya
12-15-2007, 09:01 AM
ok will do druid, thx for the tips....gotta find somebody with a vice strap first.

DFSniper
12-15-2007, 09:12 AM
Sears and wal-mart have them, theyre about $10. i watched the guy at the shop replace the valve on my 12oz, and he just put the valve end in a vise and put the strap wrench around the tank. took like 10 seconds.

DRAGON
12-15-2007, 07:51 PM
.......Do what Drago says :dodgy: and use the frikking hair dryer...

Git yer air conditioned klilts outta a bind lol. Never mentioned a hair dryer.......you did. A hair dryer would be a much safer way for a novice to attack a concern such as he had with the bottle though. Boiled water or heat gun will suffice where the bottle is concerned. Using an open flame on the portion of the valve he's speaking of now(valve end) would not be a prob unless he used it so long it melted the plastic seal on the internal pin. I'd still use boiled water on that though. Overall, boiled water is a controlled source of heat since it will not make a part any hotter than 212*. IMO it's always better safe than sorry -

bamf-hacker
12-16-2007, 04:04 AM
OK I have been following this for awhile.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE never play near me. From what it sounds like you have completely weakened the bottle and valve. An accident waiting to happen.

Go to the store and buy a new one for $20. If you really want you can get one with an on/off for $30.

Molibya
12-16-2007, 01:31 PM
good news, got it off

applying the red loctite and anti-siphon tube as soon as i buy some loctite


and how the hell did i weakin it? just by tryin to take the thing off? u tryin to scare me or sumthin?

Molibya
12-17-2007, 10:04 AM
ok 1 more question i swear...lol

is it ok to use a different brand of thread locker....cuz the store here doesnt have loctite, but its still a thread locker and its red, forgot the brand name though.

druid
12-17-2007, 08:22 PM
Git yer air conditioned klilts outta a bind lol. -

LMFAO!!...I was being facetious when I said that...all in good fun D...


ok 1 more question i swear...lol

is it ok to use a different brand of thread locker....cuz the store here doesnt have loctite, but its still a thread locker and its red, forgot the brand name though.

Yeah you can, so long as it's holding strength has the same characteristics. 'LocTite' is just a brand name of one particular thread locker. If yours does the same thing, the name means very little.

When you put the thread locker on....ah Hell....go to this (http://smartcorps.smartparts.com/forum/showthread.htm?t=281) link....

Molibya
12-17-2007, 09:29 PM
thx alot for that site, helped alot....now this is the end of the thread...OFFICIALLY!!! (how long have i been at this stupid thing, like a week or sumthin?.....pathetic)

thx for all the great help guys, you've been a life saver.

kramernator
12-19-2007, 08:15 AM
if i were you i would take it to a airsmith, they will do it right and the tank won't explode and kill you

Molibya
12-19-2007, 12:21 PM
....thx for the input buddy