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View Full Version : Why NOT to loctite pinvalves/regs


Kenny_McCormic
11-17-2007, 08:20 AM
Out of boredom I pulled the pinvalve of my 9oz tank today.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/32011323294.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7113394)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/32011323135.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7113393)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/32011323186.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7113392)

spray and pray
11-17-2007, 01:43 PM
WOW. Did you locktight it? or did it come that way.

Kenny_McCormic
11-17-2007, 02:31 PM
It came that way its a PSI plus 9oz steelie. Now of course its all cleaned up and reassembled witout any loc tite. I am going to inspect the valve on my 20oz the next time it is empty.

DRAGON
11-17-2007, 04:16 PM
.............Now of course its all cleaned up and reassembled witout any loc tite. I am going to inspect the valve on my 20oz the next time it is empty.

Smart move! :dodgy: Now when you try to unscrew the tank, the bottle will easily unscrew from the valve and possibly shoot off like a rocket and kill someone. At least the holes will be cleared now and give you a lil warning ahead of time. From the frying pan into the fire. This is exactly why it's suggested for a certified tech to perform such a task -

:news: The holes were only filled because they used too much Loctite, not because they used it in general. You're playing with fire and most assuredly get burned as a result! - :slap:

118917
11-17-2007, 06:39 PM
Smart move! :dodgy: Now when you try to unscrew the tank, the bottle will easily unscrew from the valve and possibly shoot off like a rocket and kill someone. At least the holes will be cleared now and give you a lil warning ahead of time. From the frying pan into the fire. This is exactly why it's suggested for a certified tech to perform such a task -

:news: The holes were only filled because they used too much Loctite, not because they used it in general. You're playing with fire and most assuredly get burned as a result! - :slap:

trust in dragon and you will prosper
turn your back on dragon and a ban slap you will recieve :D

SupaSnipa
11-17-2007, 06:42 PM
trust in dragon and you will prosper
turn your back on dragon and a ban slap you will recieve :D
I lol'd that

Kenny_McCormic
11-17-2007, 07:17 PM
Didnt some kid die a few year ago from a co2 valve with a clogged port? Im REALLY not seing some of the logic used by you guys the valve has several more threads than the tank, enough that when you screw it off to a point where the relief port is exposed there is still maximum threading going on. Should i apply loc tite to HPA tanks while im at it because Carleton sure doesnt think I should http://resources.carltech.com/PTD/valves.html. And to quote a hydro tester http://resources.carltech.com/PTD/valves.html
If the manufactures say dont use it, You DONT. Its amazing why people think paintball tanks are different then lets say a dive tank or a medical tank, we dont use loctite on those do we, NO. Using loctite is dangerous and not everyone puts the same amount, not to mention when it comes time for hydro, trust me I had to put a 3ft pipe wrench on this one reg. just to get it off. Another one Someone put so much on I snapped the reg. off I got some pics of the tank and what happens when you use to much loctite I just dont know how to upload them.

DRAGON
11-17-2007, 08:30 PM
HPA tanks normally have 3000-5000psi pushing between the tank and regulator. Not much a chance they're going to unscrew, therefore Loctite is not an essential. HPA tanks do not have a substance in them that makes the components expand and contract because of temperature variations -

You're mixing apples with oranges here. HPA and C02 tanks are different and use different propellants. I won't debate this with you. All I'm saying is this is an accident waiting to happen and it's your(or someone elses) funeral. AMOF, next time you get this tank filled, mention that the valve threads have no Loctite and see what the person at the pro shop tells you - ;)

deano 177
12-13-2007, 04:53 PM
My friend let me borrow a 9oz a while back. When I started taking the tank off the top started unscrewing. I was like WWWWTTTTFFFFF!!!!.:darth:
I had never had that happen before. It was out of air at the time but still. I took the tank off the marker and started playing around with it to see what was going on. It seemed like there was some white "glue" that was supposed to hold it in. It was gone. I have never seen white lock-tight. Red is the bad-ass-never-let-go stuff, Blue is tough and Orange just means that whatever you are working on has been torqued.(I might be wrong about the strengths and colors but that has been my experiance)

I did notice the blowoff hole about a 1/4" from the top of the threads. That eased my mind to know that if it did unscrew while full that hopefully I would have just got a face full of cold air and not a 9oz rocket. Any way I told him about it and he asked me if I tighened it back up. I told him he needed to take that tank out of service and that I would pay for it since it happened on my watch. Then he wipped out a pipe wrench and gave it a torque and said "good as new!" :eek: I tried to tell him that he should have the paintball store that we go to look at it but he was cool with the way he fixed it.

Now having said that, I am a trades person. I saw the way this thing was threaded together. You would have to really and truly be a total f-up to take this thing all the way out. Even if the blow hole was plugged.

oldironmudder
12-13-2007, 05:27 PM
Blue is low
Red is darn good hold
Green is get the cutting torch out!!!!

bamf-hacker
12-13-2007, 05:40 PM
http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/7708/lock0mz.jpg

oldironmudder
12-13-2007, 05:44 PM
OOOHHH I was told that green was the "go buy another cause it wont come apart" one... oh well, learned something new today.

timbertiger20
12-16-2007, 10:49 PM
There are more colors than that......some greens hold very well!

As to Kenny........Most CO2 tanks have that little tiny relief hole........it will vent some CO2 out but your talking about the possibilty of 20 oz of CO2 throught that little hole. It's a safety but not a good one. Realize that as you are hitting that little hole you have alot less threading making contact and they have stripped the threads in the past and shot off. On CO2 you always want to use Blue loctite but only a drop on the bottom three threads. HPA is a totally different story.

This is from guerrillaair.com
Q. Do I have to LocktiteTM the regulator into the bottle?

A. For a long time now the use of LocktiteTM when installing the regulator to the bottle has been an issue. At Guerrilla Air our primary concern is player safety, as such we use a small amount of medium grade, removable LocktiteTM when installing our regulators on a 47ci/3000PSI bottle. The reason being is this system is primarily used by players new to the sport of Paintball and field rental systems. This being said, we do not use LocktiteTM when installing our regulators on a 68ci/4500PSI bottle, as these systems are typicaly purchased by a seasoned player who needs to travel and must remove the regulator from the bottle during the security screening at the airport. We will be happy to LocktiteTM or not LocktiteTM your regulator into the bottle for you, simply specify wether or not you would like us to LocktiteTM the regulator into the bottle when you order.

This is the only reason I don't loctite because I travel alot!

Now look at this!
http://guerrillaair.com/store/images/myth_reg_s.jpg
Notice they have milled large air channels all the way down the threading. They are large and there is at least two. It can dump the whole bottle very fast! The threads are also twice as long as your typical CO2 pin valve threads! The reg manufacturer's spend alot more time in development and put alot of extra safety measures in their products. CO2 tanks and valves aren't removed enough to warrant those same costly safety measures. Now put your CO2 pin valve back on with loctite before someone gets killed!

Kenny_McCormic
12-17-2007, 09:03 AM
Both of my valves have enough threading that there is full contact when the safety port is showing. I should of took a pic of the valve on my 20oz when i had it off it has the two big channels and holes in the channels.

druid
12-17-2007, 08:50 PM
here's another thng to consider...

Locktite is a thread-locker...not a hole filler like JBWeld would be.

A filled bottle with more than ........I'ma saaaaaaaaayy.......50 psi in it, it's extremely likely that the LocTite clogging that hole would be blown out as the rest of the tank's contents vented. It's even more likely that with more than the 50 psi...would have definately blown that out. It's a small hole with a lot of force behind it (yes, 50 psi is a lot in this particular instance)...I wouldn't stake my life on the 50 psi number...I'm just saying - it's thread-locker. It's meant to create a bond in between a tooth and a gland of a screw...not plug a hole. Could it? Possibly...but not likely.

Ace24
12-17-2007, 09:39 PM
:hugs druid:

I loctite my HPA tank... but that's because I don't travel.

druid
12-18-2007, 02:18 AM
eeeeeeeewwwwwwww.......I bee'd hugged by a do0d !! ::yech:

Kenny_McCormic
12-18-2007, 12:09 PM
here's another thng to consider...

Locktite is a thread-locker...not a hole filler like JBWeld would be.

A filled bottle with more than ........I'ma saaaaaaaaayy.......50 psi in it, it's extremely likely that the LocTite clogging that hole would be blown out as the rest of the tank's contents vented. It's even more likely that with more than the 50 psi...would have definately blown that out. It's a small hole with a lot of force behind it (yes, 50 psi is a lot in this particular instance)...I wouldn't stake my life on the 50 psi number...I'm just saying - it's thread-locker. It's meant to create a bond in between a tooth and a gland of a screw...not plug a hole. Could it? Possibly...but not likely.
I should test that, be dangerous if done incorrectly but i got a few ideas, will post vids if i ever do it.

druid
12-18-2007, 12:55 PM
If you do, I'd suggest getting a REALLY good scale so you can accurately measure how much CO2 goes in the bottle...and start with just the "purge" charge only...something like what...1/8 oz? of liquid...and go up from there. For safety's sake, I wouldn't go any higher than once full ounce of CO2...that should take you up about a few hundred psi.

I'd also mount the tank reg in a vice with the purge hole up...and have someone holding plexiglass over the valve so the videographers are protected from the venting as you turn the bottle to expose it.

timbertiger20
12-18-2007, 06:29 PM
Ummm so you know the physics of CO2.......how much you have doesn't matter at all. Ultimately CO2 is all relevant to the temp and so if there is any liquid at all you will be at a PSI on the CO2/Temp curve. In otherwords if you were to rig it to test with regular air you could slowly add normal pressure via a regulator and it would be much safer. This comes from the guy who almost blew himself up doing CO2 expirements! I now know what happends when 20 oz. of CO2 liquid is induced to a palmer's reg. It fails!