View Full Version : Spyder shutter Crossthreaded
09-13-2007, 04:44 PM
So yeah I was trying to upgrade my old spyder shutter by replacing the existing microlined hose with a steal braided and didn't know that the spyders require metric threading and I cross threaded the female ends of connections. Now it's nearly impossible to get the old hose adapters to screw in. Does anyone know of a way to correct the threads in the female ends, or do I have to buy new parts? I know there is a tool that mechanics use to "rethread" cross threaded engine parts but i'm not sure how effective that would be on a paintball marker.
If I have to buy new parts does anyone have an suggestions? the two parts that would need to be replaced are the following(Factory Part Names):
C\A Adapter w/Regulator (I Think just the C/A Adapter needs replacing)
Model S Expansion Chamber
Any Help or Suggestions would be highly appreciated.
09-13-2007, 06:07 PM
I wouldnt use the damaged threads no matter what has been done to them. IMO just use this as an excuse to buy a stabilizer or go vert bottle till ya have the cash.
09-15-2007, 07:26 PM
i did the same thing...
i used a dye and tap kit to rethread the hose, but havent been able to rethread the expansion chamber. the best thing to do is look in the B/S/T section for a cheap regulator. if you dont have the money for a regulator, i know theres someone in there selling an expansion chamber.
09-17-2007, 08:56 PM
Thank you both for your input. I am trying to dye and cut the existing threads tomorrow, but as you said the expansion chamber seems to be the harder of the two parts to fix. The adapter seems to almost be fixed but the expansion chamber I think unsalvagable. What I have done in the mean time though is buy a cheap replacement gun from ebay. They are cheap and i'm sure the parts I want won't be crossthreaded. I even tried to buy a broken gun because all I wanted was the parts from it. Anyways i'll let you know if the dye and cut worked or not.
09-18-2007, 03:47 PM
So good news. I used the dye and cut tool kit to rethread the female ends and I am able to get the hose on again. Unfortunetly, upon testing it something popped inside the gun itself and an loud air leak began. I think I popped an o-ring. Does anyone know of a good O-ring kit/package for spyders?
09-18-2007, 05:04 PM
spyders use all #15 (same as tank) orings
09-18-2007, 05:11 PM
just buy the 10 pack at walmart for $5
09-18-2007, 05:14 PM
or a hundred pack from ebay for the same price
09-18-2007, 07:16 PM
btw, how did you rethread the expansion chamber??
09-18-2007, 07:17 PM
oh very nice to know that I only need one kind of o-ring. Thanks, both of you, for the information. Upon taking the gun apart I noticed a smaller o-ring as well. The product manual says it's a filter o-ring. It doesn't seem to be around anything and just sits on top of the filter. The link below is a quick link to the same manual I have. The part I am talking about is part #37A. It isn't shown in the picture but my gun has one. Not sure how important this would be. I just keep putting it back where I found it.
09-18-2007, 07:23 PM
oh and I rethreaded the expansion chamber with same tool as I used on the regulator adapter. Both seem to use a metric 1.25 10mm thread. You must go really really slow when doing this and make sure you are straight as you grind your way down. You only get one chance to fix this being it's made of aluminum and the tool is made of high grade composite steel.
Note: the thread measurements above are for a spyder shutter(Factory Parts). I have not measured any other spyder and do not know the measurements for those.
09-18-2007, 07:33 PM
between your bottomline ASA (or C/A adapter #35A, as the manual calls it) and your hose connector, there is a little brass filter. you put the filter in the bottomline, put the o-ring on top of it, and then screw your hose back on. this keeps the filter from causing leaks. the filter is there to help keep liquid co2 out of the gun.
09-20-2007, 07:00 PM
Ok well I replaced and oiled all the o-rings in the gun, but for some reason when i connect the NO2 tank to the gun it leaks air through the barrel. Anyone have any ideas? The gun still fires but the air leak is constant and decently loud. Also each time I fire the gun the leak seems to fade a bit then comes back.
09-20-2007, 09:23 PM
it sounds like you may need a new cupseal... but just make sure you cock your marker before you attach air and that your valve o-rings are oiled. another cause could be low air in your tank.
09-21-2007, 09:51 AM
Thanks that is what the problem was. I replaced the cupseal and the leak was gone. Upon inspecting the old one I found an aluminum shaving inbedded in the plastic. I think the shaving was in the expansion chamber after I rethreaded it and when I fired the gun it became in bedded in the cupseal. So let this be a note to anyone that rethreads with that tool. Make sure you get all the shavings out before you reassemble it and fire it.
09-21-2007, 04:50 PM
no problem, that's what i'm here for! ;) i'm glad you got it working.
07-08-2008, 09:28 AM
So good news. I used the dye and cut tool kit to rethread the female ends and I am able to get the hose on again. Unfortunetly, upon testing it something popped inside the gun itself and an loud air leak began. I think I popped an o-ring. Does anyone know of a good O-ring kit/package for spyders?try www.ftwpaintball.com you can get 100 black tank/bolt/valve orings for $4 free shipping