HelpDeskHustler
08-27-2007, 05:37 PM
ok so I figured only you guys would really appreciate this:
Recently my friend has been having problems with his new DM6 that he didn't buy himself... Mainly problems with leaking, FSDO, shooting slower than his hopper can feed, and eye errors. (any person familiar with the dm boards knows the last 2 go hand and hand). Since I had already fixed his previous marker once before, he decided to come to me... for you to really know how he plays you should know something about his A5 fix first. *flashback*
One fateful afternoon I received a call from my friend, he has a tendency to play both woods and speedball with his e-framed flatline a5, and this weekend he had planned on playing woods with some of HIS friends (take note, I pulled all of my friends out of the woods a long time ago -- mainly because i hate bees and spyders). He wanted me to figure out what was wrong with his A5, since it wouldn't fire when he tested it with a full co2 tank earlier. I agreed for a nominal fee (5 bucks) and he made his way over to drop it off. Now, I know what to expect when cleaning a tippmann, since usually it's the first time the chamber has seen the sun since it was assembled... but this A5 was horrible. Dirt and small grain sized pebbles and sand crusted over the screw holes, covered lightly in pain residue. He had told me it had never been cleaned or taken apart, but i was still baffled. I made my way to the full $5 cleaning by completely disassembling the gun.... including the allen wrench screws, which as you know are not all designed to be removed often. Murphy's law befell me as I reached the last allen screw that held the shell together... it was clearly locked into place by what I can only describe as "nature's superglue" I even used the Impact driver and stainless steel hex bits in a final attempt to move the screw... but when it was clear that the screw would never budge because of the now evident stripping... i decided it was a lost cause and switched from the hex bit to the drill bit and "juggernauted" through the head of the screw. The internals were uneventful... basically the same sludge as the outside had, but this time it was covered in a black film that I could only manage to identify it as what could possibly be remaining of the "factory lube". rubbing alcohol, cotton pads, aluminum polish and white lithium grease followed and the gun was as good as new.... well except for some minor problems with the e-frame because of tippman's shotty boards. *real time*Sludge seems to follow my friend, since the disassembly of his dm6 resulted in the same unusual muck... that managed to find it's way in through unknown caverns... since he never plays in the woods with the dm6, i was surprised to find 3mm of sand/mud crammed in the hole of the back cap, which seemed to be causing the FSDO since the bolt couldn't completely reset. The leaking I found to be dirt distributing through the chamber until all of the seals had been surrounded by gunk. The eye problem was simply this gunk spread across the dm6 "self cleaning eyes". So i had it up and running... shooting well, but still feeling like a gun I'd never buy. I fixed the pull a bit, but unfortunately that never fixed the trigger itself, or the return speed of the trigger... O well... I can only do so much. The paint and air test w/ my pulse loader came out to a nice 20+bps in psp maxhopper ramping. I returned it to its dye obsessed owner with a decent feeling. Keep in mind I had already told him why his gun was shooting slow when i returned it, and also explained eye errors to him before he gave me his gun to fix... But alas, one cannot heal teh nubs, because earlier yesterday he came up to me and said "hey dave, the eyes still aren't working right". So I asked him if he was using air and paint... of course the answer was no... so I said something about how the board expects the chamber to empty before it resets the eye otherwise it goes into error mode, he said his finger wasn't in chamber when he was getting the error... :rolleyes: so clearly the bolt had been jostled... i sent him on his way telling him to push the bolt all the way back and then the eyes would show up with no signal when he turned it on. So today is the kicker... he comes up to me and says they still won't work, again I ask him if he used air and paint... again no... but this time, despite the 3 times i had taught him why holding a finger in there reads as an error he said "when i block the eye beam with my fingers it clicks slow and shows the error"
Can teh nub be cured or is there no hope!?
Recently my friend has been having problems with his new DM6 that he didn't buy himself... Mainly problems with leaking, FSDO, shooting slower than his hopper can feed, and eye errors. (any person familiar with the dm boards knows the last 2 go hand and hand). Since I had already fixed his previous marker once before, he decided to come to me... for you to really know how he plays you should know something about his A5 fix first. *flashback*
One fateful afternoon I received a call from my friend, he has a tendency to play both woods and speedball with his e-framed flatline a5, and this weekend he had planned on playing woods with some of HIS friends (take note, I pulled all of my friends out of the woods a long time ago -- mainly because i hate bees and spyders). He wanted me to figure out what was wrong with his A5, since it wouldn't fire when he tested it with a full co2 tank earlier. I agreed for a nominal fee (5 bucks) and he made his way over to drop it off. Now, I know what to expect when cleaning a tippmann, since usually it's the first time the chamber has seen the sun since it was assembled... but this A5 was horrible. Dirt and small grain sized pebbles and sand crusted over the screw holes, covered lightly in pain residue. He had told me it had never been cleaned or taken apart, but i was still baffled. I made my way to the full $5 cleaning by completely disassembling the gun.... including the allen wrench screws, which as you know are not all designed to be removed often. Murphy's law befell me as I reached the last allen screw that held the shell together... it was clearly locked into place by what I can only describe as "nature's superglue" I even used the Impact driver and stainless steel hex bits in a final attempt to move the screw... but when it was clear that the screw would never budge because of the now evident stripping... i decided it was a lost cause and switched from the hex bit to the drill bit and "juggernauted" through the head of the screw. The internals were uneventful... basically the same sludge as the outside had, but this time it was covered in a black film that I could only manage to identify it as what could possibly be remaining of the "factory lube". rubbing alcohol, cotton pads, aluminum polish and white lithium grease followed and the gun was as good as new.... well except for some minor problems with the e-frame because of tippman's shotty boards. *real time*Sludge seems to follow my friend, since the disassembly of his dm6 resulted in the same unusual muck... that managed to find it's way in through unknown caverns... since he never plays in the woods with the dm6, i was surprised to find 3mm of sand/mud crammed in the hole of the back cap, which seemed to be causing the FSDO since the bolt couldn't completely reset. The leaking I found to be dirt distributing through the chamber until all of the seals had been surrounded by gunk. The eye problem was simply this gunk spread across the dm6 "self cleaning eyes". So i had it up and running... shooting well, but still feeling like a gun I'd never buy. I fixed the pull a bit, but unfortunately that never fixed the trigger itself, or the return speed of the trigger... O well... I can only do so much. The paint and air test w/ my pulse loader came out to a nice 20+bps in psp maxhopper ramping. I returned it to its dye obsessed owner with a decent feeling. Keep in mind I had already told him why his gun was shooting slow when i returned it, and also explained eye errors to him before he gave me his gun to fix... But alas, one cannot heal teh nubs, because earlier yesterday he came up to me and said "hey dave, the eyes still aren't working right". So I asked him if he was using air and paint... of course the answer was no... so I said something about how the board expects the chamber to empty before it resets the eye otherwise it goes into error mode, he said his finger wasn't in chamber when he was getting the error... :rolleyes: so clearly the bolt had been jostled... i sent him on his way telling him to push the bolt all the way back and then the eyes would show up with no signal when he turned it on. So today is the kicker... he comes up to me and says they still won't work, again I ask him if he used air and paint... again no... but this time, despite the 3 times i had taught him why holding a finger in there reads as an error he said "when i block the eye beam with my fingers it clicks slow and shows the error"
Can teh nub be cured or is there no hope!?