View Full Version : HELP!!!! it died
07-29-2007, 09:13 AM
Playing woods with my victor yesterday and it had really low velocity i turned up the screw3/4 of the way in and it was running around 250 i figured it just needed a new spring. Im out of the woods and we decide to set up some bunkers and do 1 on 1 speedball once again gun worked fine but only shot around 250 right where i like to put it. 1000 rounds later it wouldnt recock just go all full auto changed my striker oring and lubed it heavilet still wouldnt recock. so i fully strip it down and the only thing that looked the slightest bit wrong was the valve pin was all scratched up. so i lubed everything replaced the valve orings for the hell of it and shot. Now the only way it will recock is if i remove the barrel and put my hand over the front of it.
07-29-2007, 12:07 PM
Your tank is full?
07-29-2007, 01:58 PM
Yea i tried several different tanks all give the same result it only recocks when i hold my hand over the place where the barrel screws in. Yes i tried it with paint and both my barrels
07-29-2007, 02:30 PM
I'd take everything out, give everything a thorough cleaning and try again, although you probably have done that several times. When you take it out, make sure you inspect everything for damage. Especially the striker, bolt and sear.
07-29-2007, 03:45 PM
Striker, bolt and sear are fine. The only thing that looks wrong to me is the valve pin is all scratched up. How this happened I dont know as I put a couple drops of oil in the asa every time i screw on a tank. Another thing my gas efficiency went way down even though i was shooting lower than usual I usually get 1900-2000 on a 20oz tank at around 280fps according to the poor mans chrono (90 feet) but that time i had it set to around 60 feet because i like having the ability to drop balls over bunkers. but i only got like 1200 shots that day. Im thinking it is the valve/valve pin.
07-29-2007, 05:06 PM
If the valve pin some how got bent and was not moving smoothly then yes, it could very well be the valve pin.
07-29-2007, 05:32 PM
I just pulled out the valve pin again and the valve spring looks bent. Could this be the problem? Who makes the best spring kits?
07-29-2007, 05:39 PM
I ran a cut valve spring for a while & it worked great then the day I went to the field it started messing up about the same as yours. After tearing it apart 6 time there & 2 different FULL co2 tanks & 1 68/45 I pulled all the modded parts out & rebuilt it stock. Shot fine after that.
07-29-2007, 05:48 PM
Im gonna try a spring kit and see what happens who makes the best spring kits? Im thinking of getting the madman one. Also my valve pin and valve are pretty scratched up will they be ok or do i need to buff all of that out?
08-03-2007, 09:46 PM
maddman its the best...
I've used shocktech befor..its ok. but the variety of springs in the maddman spring kit makes it the best. also the springs have a longer life, they don't tire as easy.
if I had scratches on my valve like the ones you described , I'd go and get a new one. I'd recomend a turbo valve , they are built soundly and because your not Lp it will work great. but still you can go back to another stock.
yeah, softer springs makes it easy for your gun to recock.
08-03-2007, 10:45 PM
What about the 32 degrees spring kit they seem to be the cheapest and i only need this to last until "gift day" when santa will bring me a trilogy autococker competition package with a revvy and all sorts of good stuff! (not to say spyders are bad but you gotta admit they are built kinda cheap with the plastic trigger frames and stuff)
08-04-2007, 04:12 PM
yeah its cheap. but its only striker springs.
the maddman kit has all springs. 3 valve springs, 3 striker springs, a trigger spring, and a sear spring.
for 11 bucks you can't go wrong
08-05-2007, 01:15 PM
The one i was looking at had 6 valve (3 for each body type) and 3 striker I dont need the sear and trigger springs had some really bad luck when I tried a lighter sear spring.
08-05-2007, 05:54 PM
those must be some pretty heavy springs to weigh 2 pounds..
08-09-2007, 10:43 AM
dunno they had a $25 min order so I said screw it and bought a maddman kit somewhere else
08-09-2007, 02:39 PM
that's the shipping weight, meaning it could weigh 2oz, but if the box is big enough, it could have a shipping weight of 20lbs
08-09-2007, 02:49 PM
(not to say spyders are bad but you gotta admit they are built kinda cheap with the plastic trigger frames and stuff)
I believe only a few models have a plastic trigger frame
either way the maddman is the best kit
08-09-2007, 05:13 PM
Yea mine has the crappy plastic frame i guess the new ones on the vs1 are better because nobody complains of them breaking.
08-09-2007, 06:33 PM
I think the sonix and victor are the only ones to have a plastic frame. Although it's not as strong as metal it is stronger than regular plastic plus it makes the marker a lot lighter
08-10-2007, 01:31 PM
Well the maddman kit came today and the included valve spring is LIGHT. With the light main in it the valve is pushed open when the gun is uncocked. Will this be ok or is my dwell gonna be super high and make the velocity too high?
08-10-2007, 04:19 PM
its supposed to do that. the kit is also used to start making your spyder lp.
take your gun to a chrono and with the three striker springs (Red heavy, Blue Norm , Green Light) and adjust it to your feilds recomended fps.
fps should go up with heavy springs and low with light springs also adjust shim for best added results.
08-10-2007, 05:19 PM
Ok thanks, dont have a chrono I just eyeball it and adjust so the paint goes ~100 feet with the gun level. Wont be able to test it till next week when i can get my tanks filled. But wont the valve always being open during storage weaken the valve spring? should i remove the spring during storage?
08-11-2007, 07:56 PM
The only thing that I do. because I have a rocket valve, is just take off the striker plug and spring out. I only do it becase I don't want my valve spring to tire out quicker nor my striker spring to tire out.
as long as your victor is uncocked your striker and valve springs will be fine, but if you want you could do the same. its your choice and my suggestion.
08-11-2007, 08:49 PM
Ok i will do that, thanks again.
08-17-2007, 02:58 PM
With the new lighter springs its also much quieter!
08-21-2007, 04:46 PM
thats great news man. hows your velocity?
08-21-2007, 04:51 PM
IDK running the light main with the adjuster half in my guess is around 260. Im sure I could take it over 300 without a different spring. Ran around a case through it a couple days ago and had no problems other than paint kept going boom in my feedneck (My bad i was playing with using the popcorning to agitate the hopper however visible impact is a tad too brittle for that). After I fixed that problem it shoots great.