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View Full Version : Spyder Rodeo info and help.


KILLER_Kô
07-10-2007, 07:26 PM
Well i finally get to post , thanks Spyder for allowing me to join the forums and also hi to everyone.

Okay, i bough a used rodeo spyder from a friend.Everything is stock on it and nothing is modified on the gun.I have a few issues with the gun and also need some parts for it as well.

The gun just want shoot far at all i mean like 50 feet is max on a full tank on c02.Tried a few different co2 tanks and all resulted in same thing low performance.As the guage doesn't work on the gun and the pressure dial at the back of the gun is all the way in and nothing helps.

The trigger i don't know but if you pull it too far back it will lock in the back position.I'm not sure it may suppose to do this, as i really don't know much about them.

Though it may just needed cleaning got the exploded pdf and cleaned the gun and noticed a few o-rings need to be replaced but wasn't leaking.

So where do i get a new set of o-rings from and a pressure guage at?Also is there a manual for this gun all i have found in the parts list and exploded view of the gun so far.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as all this is new and i bought it to kill some time with and get to know how these paintball guns work, etc.

Thanks for your time.

KILLER_Kô
07-19-2007, 09:13 AM
Wow , where is everyone at?I noticed most post go unanswered or get maybe 1 reply , etc.Come on people lets help here , i thought i would get some help but the way it is looking maybe not.

I mean 30 views and not one reply back is odd, maybe i perhaps worded the questions wrong but i thought for regular paintball marker users these questions would be easy to answer but i could be wrong.

Thanks

Critical
07-19-2007, 09:34 AM
I'll take a stab at it. First, we'll assume that there was enough CO2 in each of the tanks, so you can eliminate one of the most common cause of poor distance. That leaves pressure inside the marker as the next most likely culprit. Without having a gauge, it's hard to tell what's going on inside. One thing you can try is to back the velocity adjuster out to about half way, Spyders are picky. Sometimes tiny adjustments up or down can cause velocity spikes or drops, having it all the way in might be part of the problem. Missing o-rings may also be contributing to this, you might not hear the leak, but it could still be there.

For the trigger, no, it should not lock up when all the way back. Take the frame off the body, check to make sure there's nothing in the way of the sear (that's the little metal thing at the top of the trigger frame). Also take the grip off. Check that there's nothing in the way of the solenoid (metal barrel shaped thing), or the trigger.

You can find gauges online cheap. New, they run anywhere from $10-25. They are all the same. Find one that you like that the average pressure will be nearly centered on the gauge. Gauges are most accurate in the center. Stock Spyders operate at ~800psi, so find a gauge that shows ~1500psi. eBay and other places sell oring kits, they're a rip-off, but you can get the parts you need. If you can't find them anywhere, I've got a bunch of extras, I can put together a kit for you, just hit me up on PMs.

Go Here (http://www.ottersccustoms.com/upkeep.html) to find out about upkeep and maintenance of the marker.

Kingman doesn't really put out a lot of info on their markers, the exploded diagram is about it.

pb34
07-19-2007, 01:43 PM
A pressure guage might be a huge help in solving your problem. I believe that the Rodeo has a regulator. Your problem may be that the regulator is adjusted too low. I'm not sure how to adjust it as I don't own a Rodeo but there is most likely a screw on it that can be turned to adjust it.

You can buy guages and o-rings at most online paintball stores such as www.actionvillage.com or www.e-paintball.com

Critical
07-19-2007, 02:22 PM
Stock the Rodeo only has an expansion chamber.

pb34
07-19-2007, 02:33 PM
No, I'm pretty sure Rodeos come with regulators. If you look at some of the other posts in the Rodeo forum you can see.

Critical
07-19-2007, 02:42 PM
I had a rodeo as my very first marker, no regulator, just an expansion chamber that looks like one. Even says in the manual, part #2644 Expansion Chamber.

pb34
07-19-2007, 02:50 PM
I had a rodeo as my very first marker, no regulator, just an expansion chamber that looks like one. Even says in the manual, part #2644 Expansion Chamber.

Oh I guess your right considering you've owned one.

Kenny_McCormic
07-19-2007, 07:47 PM
Why would there be a gauge on a ex chamber? look at part #35e regulator adjust screw

vikingshadow
07-19-2007, 09:12 PM
I believe the Rodeo has a regulator where the ASA is, not where the expansion chamber is.

Edit: Yup! Just as I thought...here is a list of features on the Rodeo:

Semi-automatic
Matte finish anodizing
Double-finger trigger
Vertical Feed
Drop forward
Anti double feed
Expansion chamber
Regulator with Gauge
Sight Rail with beavertail
Barrel length: 12’

Ok, first of all, our apologies! I didn't see this thread, or I would have welcomed you to our little forum. Anyway, welcome!

My thoughts are this:

1. I don't want to assume, so are your Co2 tanks full? Sometimes the Co2 tank isn't really as full as we think.

2. If it is, then there's an issue with the Co2 getting into the gun. Check the regulator. As I remember, Rodeo regulators are kind of crap (sorry, Kingman!) As I said, I believe it's located where the ASA is. See if you can adjust that. It may be turned down too low.

3. If the regulator turns out fine, check your hose. Most stainless steal line comes with a filter on the end of it (inside the fitting.) Look to see if it's gummed up with anything. If so, clean it or remove it and see if that helps.

4. Moving further up the system, you may want to check your valve. Make sure the orings are good and lubed and that there is nothing wrong with the cup seal. Make sure the pin moves freely.

5. Check your striker. Make sure the o-ring is good and oil it well.

6. Check your main spring (behind the striker.) Is it weak? If so, you may want a stronger spring. Also, while your there, look at the shim. (Long skinny thing that fits in the spring.) Check to see if there is a metal round piece that fits inside the back of the velocity adjuster - this makes it possible to actually use the adjuster - otherwise, the shim and spring are useless and you won't be able to adjust anything. Are they in good shape?

If all this is in good shape, then I don't quite know where to go from there. That's all there is to the velocity of a spyder....

As far as the trigger problem goes, it sounds like something is getting in the way. First of all, remove the grip from the body. Look into the top of the grip. Is it dirty? Is there paint all gunked up in there?

Make sure the sear (the metal rectangle piece set at an angle) moves freely when you move the trigger. It should move towards the grip when you pull the trigger. It should a sharp edge on top - this catches that little groove in the bottom of the striker and holds it in place until the trigger is pulled again. If it's not sharp, it won't catch well.

Look around in there and see if there's something that doesn't look like it belongs around the sear when you pull the trigger all the way back. Is the spring still installed?

Check all this stuff out and then get back with us.

Again, welcome to the forums and sorry for the late responses!

Kenny_McCormic
07-20-2007, 06:04 PM
no ive seen one in person the reg and ex chmber is one assembly

vikingshadow
07-20-2007, 09:25 PM
Yeah, I see that looking at the diagram found here. (http://www.spyder.tv/section/support/diagrams/spyder_rodeo.pdf) Part numbers 2608C/G, 2644 C/G, and all related parts (no wonder it's crappy! What's with the expansion chamber AND regulator mixed together business?)

Anyway, check the regulator adjustment screw (part number 35 E) to see if it's turned the correct way. Then follow the rest of my suggestions in my previous post.

KILLER_Kô
07-21-2007, 01:18 PM
Thanks fellows for all the replies , i took the trigger apart and nothing is in the way , could a part maybe broke or dropped out?As i don't see a break down for this and i'm not sure what parts should be there or if anything is missing.

The c02 tanks was completly filled and checked in another gun and it worked fine.Seems there is a messed up o-ring where the "expansion chamber" goes into the "vertical adapter with guage", it seemed to be stretched so i need a new o-ring.But imho i think a whole new set for the gun wouldn't hurt.

The regulator screw should be turned counter close-wise out for more pressure?If so it seems mine was all the way in.Now i notice you can go a pretty good ways out with this screw, so how far is too far?

Also i paid $40 bucks for the gun and a 30 oz tank as this is the first one i ever bought is this a good price or did i make a bad call?And can i make a pretty good gun out of this one or is it even worth it?

Thanks for all the replies, i hope i didn't sound like a "butt" about the no comment issue.I just needed some help and no one here knows anything and only place to buy paint balls is "Wal-Mart".

Critical
07-21-2007, 01:48 PM
Don't worry about the no comments issue, you waited long enough, and when no one replied were direct but still reasonably polite, so that's cool. If you can figure out the problems, the rodeo can be a very good marker. $40 is a decent price for what you got, if you can get it operating cheaply. You can back the screw out until it's approx. 1/16" sticking out or so, after that, it wouldn't be changing anything (that's just a guess though, your mileage may vary, as they say). It's possible that there is a part missing or broken in the trigger frame. I've got a mechanical frame somewhere around here...

...okay, as long as Kingman didn't make any radical changes, your frame should be the same as mine. Looking at the top, with the front of the frame pointing away from you, you should see the top of the trigger at the front, with a spring attached to it that's underneath the trigger (that might be one of your problems with it sticking, if its not there). You should also see the steel sear (that's the metal thing sticking out the top), and there should be another spring attached underneath it going lengthwise.

Kenny_McCormic
07-21-2007, 02:00 PM
A 30oz tank if its still in hydro is worth $40 alone to make sure you have a complete trigger group read this http://www.ottersccustoms.com/trigger.html

KILLER_Kô
07-21-2007, 10:08 PM
Thanks for the link , i looked at his and mine and it seems that my sear lever and the trigger lever something is wrong.Like i stated earlier if i pull the trigger all the way back it locks.If i look at it taken off from the gun the trigger lever jumps over the sear level.And there looks to be a small spring behind that trigger lever that touches it.I will have to find some punches to get his thing apart right now all my tools are at the shop.

{UPDATE:}I found what the problem was, seems the trigger is worn where it makes contacton the safety lever.I guessing the front of the trigger was maybe a 1/4 longer or something and the bar from the safety switch stopped the trigger from going to far back.
Guess i need a trigger also now it seems,me and my luck.........

Well the tank came from wal-mart i can't even remember the brand.But it ran out and they have a swap out station at walmart i believe it's like 8 bucks and some change.You give them your empty tank they give you a full one back.But these have "rhino' on the tank but same everything else from the old paintball tank.

Did i do a bad think by exchanging my tank for this one?Maybe i should have kept the other tank that came with it.

Sorry for all the questions also, hopefully i can get a new regulator and perhaps could i buy a whole o-ring replacement kit that would have all the o-rings i need in it?

Critical
07-22-2007, 04:19 AM
The Rhino labels are just plastic wrap, you should be able to remove it and It'll probably be a Brass Eagle label underneath. The Rodeo uses a non-standard setup for the expansion chamber, if you swap that for a decent regulator, you'll need to get a new vertical adapter. Luckily, they sell used for about $5 here.

KILLER_Kô
07-22-2007, 06:27 AM
Okay that seems fair enough, what kind of mods am i looking at say maybe a price to performance ratio comapare.I mean how much do i ned to put into this to really enjoy it without sinking my wallet into it.As right now i really not sure what can be done to it, or if i need to buy mods for it .Maybe i will be okay with eh normal plain jane set up for now.

I guess for right now i reall need to fix the issues at hand with it before i jump off into the buying mods for it though.

Critical
07-22-2007, 04:23 PM
Absolutely. Get it working bone stock first. Then, look around Otter's site and here. Modding isn't for everyone, you might be happy with it as it is, or, you might want to sink a ton of money into it. The great thing is you can upgrade a little bit at a time until you get it to where you want it, or you can make only a few changes and be done. The marker is very easy to work on and is very forgiving of mistakes both in budget and difficulty of repairs.

KILLER_Kô
07-24-2007, 03:16 PM
Would the o-rings at say a parts store in the big kits be the same quality as if i bought it off the internet?Or should i buy the o-rings from a paintmarker shop online?

Critical
07-24-2007, 03:33 PM
Do they list the rating on the kit? For polyurethane, they should be either PU70 or PU90. For Buna-N/Nitrile, they should be 70D or 90D. the higher number is harder. Harder lasts longer, softer seals slightly better. Online paintball shops have the right orings, but usually charge a lot more than cost. Here is the breakdown of what to put where:

Urethane (also known as PolyUrethane)
Expansion Chamber
Tank
Bolt (2)
Striker

Nitrile/Buna-N
Low Pressure Chamber
Vertical Adapter (2)
Valve (2)
Barrel

I've got a ton laying around that I'm not using, all of the 90 rating. Also, I know Vikingshadow has a guy he gets them from, you can pay a lot less than what they sell them at by looking around. I got 100 Nitrile for like $4, and 100 Urethane for $15-ish.

Kenny_McCormic
07-24-2007, 06:20 PM
Do they list the rating on the kit? For polyurethane, they should be either PU70 or PU90. For Buna-N/Nitrile, they should be 70D or 90D. the higher number is harder. Harder lasts longer, softer seals slightly better. Online paintball shops have the right orings, but usually charge a lot more than cost. Here is the breakdown of what to put where:

Urethane (also known as PolyUrethane)
Expansion Chamber
Tank
Bolt (2)
Striker

Nitrile/Buna-N
Low Pressure Chamber
Vertical Adapter (2)
Valve (2)
Barrel

I've got a ton laying around that I'm not using, all of the 90 rating. Also, I know Vikingshadow has a guy he gets them from, you can pay a lot less than what they sell them at by looking around. I got 100 Nitrile for like $4, and 100 Urethane for $15-ish.
nope that isnt correct its mor like this

Urethane (also known as PolyUrethane)
Expansion Chamber*
Tank*
Low Pressure Chamber* *can also use nitrile instead
Vertical Adapter (2)*
Valve (2)*

Nitrile/Buna-N
Barrel* silicone will also work
Bolt (2)*

silicone
Striker

basically you can use either urethane or nitrile on everything but the striker

Critical
07-24-2007, 07:11 PM
Listen to Otter:
What Otter says about o-rings (http://www.ottersccustoms.com/upkeep.html#oring)

So basically I was right.

KILLER_Kô
07-26-2007, 10:29 PM
Thanks for the heads up on the o-ring info.Sorry i didn't mean to get a arguement going over it.I will look at the info on the box i printed this out if they don't match i'll drive to next city they have a paintball shop there.

Thanks again you all have been a great help.