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druid
06-24-2007, 01:06 PM
Alright...I have the chance to pick up a left feed Classic Mag (standard Mag barrel config...not Cocker...) that's basicly stock for $95 shipped. It works, doesn't leak and has only minor, MINOR scratches. I don't think it's "Level'd" at all (otherwise it'd be more expensive by $100 or so).

My questions are:

1. Is this a decent price for this marker? I've been to Automags.org and MCarterBrown and it seems to be the average cost...but is it worth it? It seems to be in really great shape overall.

2. I don't know much about them. I've seen the "animations" of how they work internally and understand it but other than that, does anyone have any tips/suggestions about this marker?

3. The pdf manual on the AGD site doesn't work. I've looked around for a manual without luck. Anyone know where I can d/l one in pdf?

4. Upgrades...I'm a little confused about the ups. I know the "Levels" are the valves that appear on the back of the tube but what's the benefit between the levels? I don't understand how a Lever 10 is better than a Level 7 and so forth. What is a "ULE" ? and if I wanted to upgrade to an E-frame, what frames are compatible? Someone suggested a TBoarded Spyder frame...is that even capable of bolting up?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Team Ramrod
06-24-2007, 01:39 PM
Alright...I have the chance to pick up a left feed Classic Mag (standard Mag barrel config...not Cocker...) that's basicly stock for $95 shipped. It works, doesn't leak and has only minor, MINOR scratches. I don't think it's "Level'd" at all (otherwise it'd be more expensive by $100 or so).

My questions are:

1. Is this a decent price for this marker? I've been to Automags.org and MCarterBrown and it seems to be the average cost...but is it worth it? It seems to be in really great shape overall. Seems like a good price. Is it 'worth it' well, thats up to you, the gun wont be fast, but it will be reliable and a steady workhorse. Im assuming it has a classic valve with LvL 7 so it wont be quick, but, like i said, reliable and can run on CO2 Easily

2. I don't know much about them. I've seen the "animations" of how they work internally and understand it but other than that, does anyone have any tips/suggestions about this marker?
Not much to them, proabaly the most maintenance free markers there are. Make sure its clean, drop a few drops of autolube in the valve and fire it through. Thats it.

3. The pdf manual on the AGD site doesn't work. I've looked around for a manual without luck. Anyone know where I can d/l one in pdf?
I'll have a look for you:
http://www.airgun.com/Images/automan.pdf
(worked for me, might want to try again?)

4. Upgrades...I'm a little confused about the ups. I know the "Levels" are the valves that appear on the back of the tube but what's the benefit between the levels? I don't understand how a Lever 10 is better than a Level 7 and so forth. What is a "ULE" ? and if I wanted to upgrade to an E-frame, what frames are compatible? Someone suggested a TBoarded Spyder frame...is that even capable of bolting up?
level 7 is their first bolt, then upgraded to the LvL 10. the LvL 10 is anti-chop, if it hits a ball the bolt stops and the dump chamber releases, thus not chopping your ball. Works flawlessly when tuned correctly.

ULE is ultra light engineering. just the new version of AGD products designed to be lightweight. the ULE body is cocker threaded barrels, and angle threaded feed neck and detents. Everything else is just milled to be as light as possible.

And for e-frame, you could go with a spyder frame, though it takes a bit of custom work, you use the plunger in the spyder frame to actuate the sear, instead of it being mechanical. Doing some searches on AO and PBN will give you some great detail into these mods. And if you want some electronic lowers you'll need an emag rail and sear, though their usually included if buying used.

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Added, my responses is red.

For ups, i'd suggest a ULE body and x-valve with LVL-X. This will give you the ability to use your cocker barrels and the x-valve is capable of higher rates of fire (look into ULT for this). Id make sure you have an x-valve before you look into electronic lowers, as you wont get the performance you desire without one.

(did my best, hope this helps)
[edit] any pictures of the mag?

Theheroguy
06-24-2007, 01:41 PM
lvl 10 is the fastest recharging system and you need that for the ult trigger to work

UltaLight Engineering light bodies or ULE so just a light body

go here the xvalve has a lvl 10 bolt that all but elimanates chops umm look here I'm doing a bad job xvavle (http://airgun.com/Products/xvalve.shtml) look for a mag with an xvalve that bolt is almost as good as eyes
ramrod beat me and did a better job completely

DRAGON
06-24-2007, 03:10 PM
You should actually shoot one before you buy it. I thought I'd like them intil I shot one and the trigger pull is just too......how could I put it......strange for my liking. This was on a regular Mag. If I went any way, I'd go E-Mag -

druid
06-24-2007, 04:17 PM
Thanks for the responses. I've fired one similar to this one way back when (several years ago)...and remembered that I liked it a lot (even the trigger pull, Dragon). All I did was play with it, I was never interested in knowing the "workings" of it because it wasn't mine/I didn't have one, ya know?

I never had the chance to pick one up until now (at this price...normally I see them for around $400ish) and since you all know I like to tinker, I can mod/upgrade what I need to. So as a basic marker, I'm likeing it...just need to familiarize myself better with it.

Thanks guys. OH....the pic....here ya go.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/druidsdecendant/Paintball/68ClassicMag.jpg

Team Ramrod
06-24-2007, 06:05 PM
Yeah, that your most basic mag. It will still run like a tank, but there are tons of mods/ upgrades you could get for it to turn it into a completely different marker.

druid
06-25-2007, 07:26 AM
cool, thanks. I've been reading around and about the Level 10/X valve, they say not to use CO2 because the recharge rate of the valve is so fast it's will just freeze the valves/fry the Orings that much faster...but I don't see anything about running CO2 on the stock body/internals...can I? Should I antisiphon my tanks for this? I have HP air I can use...I just want to know if I can run the CO2 in it (if I alsolutely have to). Thanks.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I'm picking up a warp feed for $41 shipped ($35+$6 s/h) for it. It was used once, no cracks or problems, is like a smoke/burnt orange color (from the pics...prolly has a camera like mine :D ) and has the universal mount and all hardware. I have a Ricco Rhino hopper I can use with it or I may pick up a Revvi to use instead...

Team Ramrod
06-25-2007, 08:53 AM
Running CO2 on the classic valve is perfectly fine, you should be golden. It's just the X-valve was designed for use with Air so its recommended to stay away. And CO2 wont have any effect on the body/ sear/ LvL's so if you want to upgrade your body or frame than you should be fine.
You don't need to anti-siphon the tanks, but it can't hurt right? That one is up you as well.

druid
06-25-2007, 09:36 AM
Awesome! Thanks a lot.

Team Ramrod
06-25-2007, 10:58 AM
My pleasure. If you think of anything else, I'll try and help you out.

druid
06-27-2007, 01:10 AM
alright...I saw this cool vid where the guy modded his Mag and installed a TBoarded ESP frame to it.

Now that I know it can be done...how do I do it? There's nothing on Aautomags.org about it...I looked. Any ideas?

Team Ramrod
06-28-2007, 02:06 PM
Ok, found you two threads on PBN on different methods how to convert your frame:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=696650

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1245424

-or-

You could contact 'Luke' on AO and send him your frame and, if he is taking orders at the moment, he can mod it for you, for a price.

Theheroguy
06-28-2007, 02:20 PM
I sent you a thingy on ao on how to do it after I sent you the vid

I don't think it was very good though