View Full Version : oscum spimmy guide

Oscum Guy
06-15-2007, 06:56 AM
thought id post this. Ive spent more on it now.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2149260 (http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2149260)

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making a spimmy is fairly easy.
I spent about $400-$500 on it so far, but it is possible to build one on a lower budget (especially with modded spyder parts and some some cocker parts). remember ebay is your friend.

Here how to build a traditional spimmy:

Timmy and standard parts you need:
-ram sleeve
-ram cap
-bolt (possible to use spyder bolt but go with the timmy bolt)
-poppet shaft (like the spyder cup seal assembly)
-poppet (a little white plastic ring that goes in the lip on the valve side of the ram sleeve.)
-front block (like the vertical asa on a spyder, also called an asa, VA, vertical adapter, lpr block)
-LPR ( low pressure regulator.)(Could use a cocker lpr and a spyder front block. if you do that you will need to use a guage threaded spyder front block or drill and tap for guage threads. cocker lpr's use the same threads as a standard guage. SEE FIG. A)
-HPR (vertical/inline regulator)
-barbs (little brass hose fittings. m3 threaded)
-Intimidator pneumatic hoses (prolly about 2 ft.)
-Trigger frame (including board, solenoid, wiring harness, maybe buttons membrane pad and an lcd, eyes)
-eye covers and detents (if you use eyes)
-guage (300psi)
-standard inline hole asa or rail mount.
-macroline and fittings

spyder parts needed:
compact slim striker spyder body
valve screw
valve spring
detents (if not using eyes)

Alright, ill start out with the body modifications.

First remove everything from the spyder body including the valve pin. look at the bottom of the body. notice the hole where the valve scre goes in. now notice the little hole closest to the valve screw on the flat part of the bottom of the body. use a drill with a 5/16 bit to drill in the middle of those 2 holes. sand dow the burrs on the inside with a wooden dowel rod or an emory board or something

eye installation:
if you not going to use eyes make sure you get a board that you can turn the eyes off with.
The timmy eye covers use a 4-40 tap size for the screws.
ottersccustoms.com has a good eye drilling template and instructions.
follow those.
note: If using Kila timmy detents you will need to put a thin peice of metal over the spyder detent hole and cut a slit so only the top part of the detent will fit through. If using regular timmy detents you will need to do the above or glue them in.

front block:
some front blocks (like the alias front block) need to be secured by a set screw on the bottom. the set screw place lines up perfectly to the spyder asa screw hole but is not threaded (intimidator front blocks like these dont have threads in them) so you will need to tap the hole and thread a set screw into it.

alright here is how to put it together:

you will need to mill a top cocking slot or halfback the body to fit the bolt in. measure how far to mill with the timmy bolt and pin. (enough to close breach plus about a centimeter. i did this with a diamond cutting saw blade. it can be done with a dremel tho. Halfback- FIG. B Slot- FIG. C

ram sleeve:
this part is kinda hard with some ram sleeves (like the 2k2) you may need spare orings depending on how well you sanded the hole in the bottom.
first put some lube on the ram sleeve orings. on a timmy you cannot use oil like on the spyder. bob long reccomends to use dow 55 but i hear that dow 33 and white lithium grease work also and i use smart parts sleek and have no trouble.
hold the ram sleeve so that the large slit on the top. push the ram sleeve through the front under the barrel threads. dont twist the ram sleeve while you sliding it in. if the ram sleeve wont go in farther tap on it with a wooden dowel rod and a hammer. put it in far enough so that the groove under the valve on the ram sleeve is lined up to the valve screw hole on the bottom of the body. screw the valve screw in.

barbs, solenoid and hoses.
this is my least favorite part.
first take the barbs and put some blue loctite or teflon/plumbers/thread seal tap on the threads on the barb. then screw the barbs into the threaded holes on the bottom of the ram sleeve. one hole is located on the back of the ram sleeve where it come out from the body and the other is hopefully located under that hole you drilled. then do the same and put a barb on the back of the front block. put the front block in the body and take apart the 2 halves of the frame and screw the frame on to the body.
on the solenoid there is a side with one barb and a side with 2 barbs. the barb on the single barb side goes to the front block barb. measure the hose needed to attach the 2 barbs plus one inch and cut the hose. slip the hose on to the barbs (dont worry this is very hard with some barbs dont think you dont have the right parts. they took me 20min each on the 3 barbs not on the noid.)
the solenoid side with 2 barbs is labeled with an A and a B barb. the front of the ram sleeve goes to the B port and the back of the ram sleeve goes to the A port. measure, cut and fit the hose again with these barbs.

next take out the front block and slip the poppet and poppet shaft/cup seal in. in the back of the ram sleeve lube and drop the ram and screw in the ram cap. remember to lube all of the orings.

screw in the lpr and teflon the guage and screw that in.

pull the bolt pin up and tilt the marker back. slide in the bolt and push down the pin so it connect to the ram.

screw in the hpr and mount the asa and macroline.

alright your done now lets shoot it.
adjust the ram cap so that the bolt goes completrely to the back of the feedneck hole.
screw out your screws on the hpr and lpr so they are flush with the reg body.
screw in your hpa.
immediately adjust your lpr so the guage reads 75psi. shoot and re-adjust the lpr if needed.
put some paint in your marker and adjust the hpr for best performance.

Any questions?




06-15-2007, 04:30 PM
nice bud
wonder if I should try to spimmy my vs2?

06-15-2007, 04:37 PM
Dang, great job on that write-up!

06-15-2007, 05:28 PM
nvm I'm keep it blowback

Oscum Guy
06-15-2007, 07:18 PM
wow, this is already getting much better feedback than pbnation.