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Critical
06-07-2007, 04:48 PM
As you might have guessed by the title, this project is going to be my effort at creating an MR based Spimmy. A little introduction...

Having owned both the MR1 and the MR2, I decided that the easiest, and most practical (read, most likely to actually work!) would be the MR1:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/MR1.jpg

And today, to kick off the project, I received this in the mail:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/Intimidator.jpg
It's a mostly stock 2k2 Intimidator, with only a few minor upgrades. It is in slightly rough condition, but since the final product will be re-annodized, I'm not too worried about little scratches and dings that I can easily buff out.

This thread is going to be my log of the project. I'm not going to go in detail for every step of making a Spimmy, since others have done it before, and better than I ever could. Instead, I'm going to focus on the things that are different with modifying the MR1. And, before you comment, I know that it's not cost effective, that it won't work and that I'm insane. My wife tells me those things all the time, so, nothing new there.

My goals with this project:
1. Functioning, good looking MR series Spimmy, affectionately named the Mil-Spim (play on words of Spimmy and Mil-Sim, get it?)
2. Learn about Intimidators, and Spimmys, as I move up the marker food chain
3. This one is important: Maintain the Mil-Sim look. What's the point of doing this if, at the end, it looks totally wrong.

Feel free to post anything at all related to this project, I have a clear idea of exactly what parts I'm going to use, and what I want it to look like. However, if you have words of encouragement, advice, humorous anecdotes or friendly constructive criticism, I welcome it all.

/Critical

Critical
06-07-2007, 05:09 PM
I've updated my issues, LOL!

1. Time & Money
Since I'm paying cash for everything, this project feeles like it's taking forever. And, buying parts a few at a time leaves me with a pile of parts, but sometimes nothing to do with them, since I may not have entire sub-assemblies.

2. Eyes
I've drilled for the eyes, but won't know until I have all the electronics, and pneumatics and nearly everything else whether they are aligned or not. I wish there was a way to hook up a battery or something and test the alignment.

3. ???
The unknown sucks!

What do you see as issue's I'm going to run in to?
/Critical

DRAGON
06-07-2007, 05:09 PM
Noice Crit....I'll be watching -

Dayum, that was quick lol -

Critical
06-07-2007, 05:13 PM
Thanks, Dragon. It's going to be a slow process as I'm trying to pay with "real" money up front for everything. And, I have an 8 month old son, a 50 hour a week job, a wife who demands a certain amount of my attention (they're pushy that way, aren't they?) a house to take care of, and, maybe, actually go out and play paintball on occasion. It's a good thing I don't sleep well, I need those hours.

VS3 Sniper
06-07-2007, 05:24 PM
I can't wait to see the finished product. What color are u planing on annoing it? Are u going to do a halfback job?

Critical
06-07-2007, 05:30 PM
No halfback here. Plans sometimes change for better or for worse, but my plan right now is to maintain the tactical look. I'm going to have an overall anno of dust dark grey with an acid wash of dust black. Certain accessory parts, like the side plates, the freak barrel back, and other little bits & pieces will be solid dust black. I may, if funding allows, mill a slot in the lower tube so the ram sleeve shows through, but I haven't decided on that yet.

DRAGON
06-07-2007, 06:24 PM
.............. I have an 8 month old son, a 50 hour a week job, a wife who demands a certain amount of my attention (they're pushy that way, aren't they?) a house to take care of, and, maybe, actually go out and play paintball on occasion. It's a good thing I don't sleep well, I need those hours.

been there, done that and i burnt out. now that i'm here it's much better. i think it's the continual sun rather than the 6 months of darkness in winter added to all the other. taking your time is Kosher. Then there's less chance of having to go over what you didn't get right the first time - ;)

Critical
06-08-2007, 02:02 AM
I'm updating this a lot more than I thought I would be, for it only being day 2. I've been sitting here, not sleeping, seeing how my ideas work in the real world. (One of my favorite quotes: "In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.") I was getting irritated with the front block sticking out too far, going down too far, being freaking huge, that sort of thing. All of a sudden, I had an epiphany (No I did not give birth to a Smart Parts marker, it was the idea sort of epiphany)

I don't actually need the front block at all!

I know, I'm probably commiting heresy in the Timmy world, but think about it. What does the front block do? It does one thing. It directs air. The regulator attaches to the bottom and the front block directs air through to the forward part of the bottom tube to be spat out along with the paintball. The LPR attaches to the front, and the front block directs the low pressure air to the barb fitting at the back of the block, to go to the solenoid. But it's not actually neccessary!

I haven't thought out the locations of everything yet, but here's my new & improved plan. Keep in mind, I'm thinking of some of this as I'm typing. What if I bottomline mounted a regulator in place of an ASA on a small drop? The Palmer's Female Stabilizer with the 98c mounting kit would work perfect for this, and, I wouldn't have to buy a drop or an ASA, saving a little money. I could then run the high pressure air anywhere I want, in any way I want. Like, maybe the stock location? Then, Otter's got the SpyderCocker write-ups on his site, stealing an idea from them, I could mount an LPR such as the Palmer's Micro-Rock on the other output of the reg, and run the input hose right up through the grip.

Or, I could maintain the ASA on the drop (I happen to like on/off asa's) and since the CP ASA's that I prefer have two outs, I could run one to the reg, mounted...maybe..., under the barrel? So it looks like a tactical flashlight? The LPR could then either be mounted on the reg, or on the other out of the ASA. Mounting it to the ASA would still allow me to run the hose through the frame. The only problem with mounting the reg under the barrel is that I would have a 14-16 inch line running from the ASA to the reg. That's a lot of line. Or, I could try to mess around with running hard line up against the body. But I can think of a number of issues with that, not the least of which is that I've never dealt with hard line before and don't know what it can or can not do.

Hmmm......

bamf-hacker
06-08-2007, 04:31 AM
I have an 8 month old son, a 50 hour a week job, a wife who demands a certain amount of my attention (they're pushy that way, aren't they?) a house to take care of, and, maybe, actually go out and play paintball on occasion. It's a good thing I don't sleep well, I need those hours.


GET YOUR OWN LIFE!!! Why are you trying to steal mine :) Well close enough anyway, add a second kid and since I got my mask I sleep great.


Awesome idea for a marker. Please don't let this project slide I am interested in the outcome.

vikingshadow
06-08-2007, 07:29 AM
GET YOUR OWN LIFE!!! Why are you trying to steal mine :)

Well thank God he stole it from me - I was tired of having that life times two and 14 years!!!! Well, minus the summer hours, that is :devil:

Very interesting. I'll be keeping my eye on this as well - can't wait to see it happen

Hob Hayward
06-08-2007, 01:47 PM
I'd use a female stabilizer and mount the LPR where that little cap is (where theres a will, theres a way).

Nenkitsune
06-08-2007, 04:35 PM
for the lpr, i'd use a cocker lpr and either run it out the gauge port on the hpr, or get a dual port asa, and run a 90 off one side and hook on the lpr.

Critical
06-08-2007, 04:54 PM
That's pretty much exactly what I said I am going to do. :D

118917
06-08-2007, 04:56 PM
already drooling over the mental image you've given me
can't wait to see this sexy beast

Nenkitsune
06-08-2007, 05:44 PM
yeah, i was thinking of doing this with my mr-1. maybe going so far as to making a mag for it to hold the board, and running the stock frame modified to hold a microswitch and the noid. if i could, i would make it not have any external hoses.

newkid
06-08-2007, 05:49 PM
I cant wait to see the finished product

Critical
06-08-2007, 08:22 PM
I had no idea this little project of mine would become so popular! I better not screw it up. :p

Not a lot of progress was made today, had to work later than I intended, it took 2 hours to get home, and then the family needed me there, instead of working on this project. the biggest news is that I finally was able to get in touch with the person I bought the Intimidator from. It seems we will be able to resolve the issue like adults. It was exactly what I thought, he bought the marker, and was trying to flip it. He never opened it up or verified the condition. I'm sure he's pissed right now about it, because now he has to take the heat for someone else's lies. I feel bad asking for money back, considering what i paid for it, but I asked him to cover most of the cost of a solenoid, since that's really the only major part I need that I care about. Everything else, I can buy or scrap-build on my own.

I know this is the part you really care about...pics!

Here you can see a rough idea of what the finished product is going to look like.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/Mil-SpimInProg.jpg
Don't mind the clutter, I'm one of those types that cleans obsessively, right up until I start being creative, then it all goes to hell.

The front section of the clamshell.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/FrontofClamshell.jpg
I had to grind about 3/16" off the front of the clamshell to get it to fit with the body's screw holes. Amazingly, I got it right, the first time, on both sides. As a side note, I dropped the poppit into the front of the ram sleeve, and, at this point, it looks like the poppit will operate with the stock MR front cap and spring. I may also grind the front cap flush with the front of the body, so, if I use the shroud, it fits flush.

The back of the clamshell
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/RearofClamshell.jpg
As you can see, everything fits beautifully, like I know what I'm doing. The ram sleeve clears the stock, the ram cap fits under it, and the clamshell doesn't poke too far over the rear of the body, like I was afraid it might. Since this is all just test fitted, nothing is set in stone. It looks like I may have to grind a notch into the rear of the body to clear the barb fitting and the hose. That will be determined once I have a board, solenoid, hoses, wiring harness, etc.

I also dodged a potentially serious bullet. I didn't think about the bolt travel and the differences between the Spyder bolt and the Intimidator bolt. I also had no idea until I assembled it, if the ram sleeve slot would match up. I got lucky, the Spyder bolt and the Intimidator bolt are nearly the same. The distances between the cocking pin hole and the air flow hole are identical. The only difference is that the Spyder bolt is 1/8" longer in the front than the Intimidator bolt. I haven't decided which dirrection I'm going to take as far as the bolt is concerned, so, we'll put that on the "parking lot" and come back to it later.

Here, you, hopefully, can see how I got lucky with the ram sleeve slot. The front of the sleeve matches up exactly with the body's slot. (that little shiny line is the edge of the ram sleeve).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/RamSleeveIntFrnt.jpg

And, here's the rear. The ram sleeve slot is about 1/4" shorter than the body slot. I got seriously lucky!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/RamSleeveIntRear.jpg

That's all for today, and, I'm not sure how much more I can get done. I have to pay off some bills, buy some birthday presents for my wife, get a marker that I can use while this is down, and start collecting all the million or so parts I need. Til next time...

Critical
06-08-2007, 08:35 PM
Last quick update for the night. Just got off of PMs with the seller of the Intimidator. He's going to cover $30 towards the cost of the solenoid. I'm pleased that he made it right and didn't go off. Will $30 pay for a solenoid? No, but it will cover most of it, and I need enough other parts that I can absorb $15 of my own money for the noid.

Ace24
06-08-2007, 10:45 PM
I can easily dremel it (notice the one "m" Ace? lol)

Yeah, yeah... I know I suck at spelling. Thats my one downfall.

Good idea though. I'm thinking your going to have to do alot of cutting, milling, and dremeling (hey I spelt it right?) to the frame to get it done right. It'll be a project... thats for sure.

Critical
06-16-2007, 07:35 PM
I'll have to promise pics in a later edit, my pos digital camera (hey, I got it free) decided to suck down the batteries and leave me hanging.

Now for the updates!

First, Kingman was thoughtful enough to provide a very nice looking divot behind the valve hole and in front of the frame vent hole. It looks like it's in the perfect location for the barb hole. It's not. It's approximately 1/16" too far back. 1/16" might not sound like much, but with as thick as the material is, and as small as those little barbs are, it makes a difference.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/UnmolestedMR1Bottom.jpg

Here it is with the barb hole drilled in the correct spot:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/MR1withBarbHole.jpg

Second, ever wonder what happens to an MR1 body when you drill for the eyes too close to the feed? That's right, you're left with a big chunk of scrap aluminum. Enter MR1 #2 :mad: :mad: :mad:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/MessedUpMR1.jpg

So, now that I'm drilling the eyes in the right place, you know how on everyone's spimmy directions, they "highly recommend" that you use a drill press? Having done it the hard way, I can tell you, I don't recommend it, I would insist, especially if you are working on an MR spimmy like me. Trust me, it's worth the extra time and effort here!

I've also ordered the clamshell side plates I wanted (only twice as expensive as I had hoped), and a trigger guard.

So, finally, I have an MR1 body, drilled for the barbs and eyes. The body internals are all placed, fitted and assembled. Decisions have been made, changed, gone back to, modifed, scrapped and made to work. Unfortunately, the guy who usually has everything for timmies, is pretty well tapped right now. That means that most of my purchasing is going to have to be new :( or, I'm going to have to waste my time searching multiple forums and eBay to find everything. :mad:

Uncleskunky
06-20-2007, 05:53 PM
Just curious on the stats of this project. I am working on something similar but utilizing the ESP rokr and a bunch of dirt cheap parts from scenario dreams.
what is your plan for the LPR?
what brand of ram, cap and sleeve?
What valve?
I am going to nix the fake mag and build a mil spec ish box and phony mag to house the noid and batt and the LPR.
I'd really like to get my hands on the foregrip(metal,not gay plastic junk) from a mr-2.
Any body ever order parts from Kingman?
Cool project hope to see more.

Critical
06-20-2007, 06:50 PM
Right now, I'm paying off my wife's Birthday presents, so, since I'm paying cash for all the parts, it's on hold until I have money again. The only parts I'm waiting on is new clamshell sideplates and a trigger guard. For the LPR, I'm going to use the Palmer's Micro Rock Stabilizer, mounted on a T fitting that comes off the main reg that will be mounted in place of a drop/asa. I purchased a parts timmy for most of the little pieces, then, when it arrived, most of those pieces weren't included. For now, I'm going to use the stock ram. The timmy came with a Hybrid ram cap, so I'll use that, and I'm using the stock ram sleeve, since there's no point to upgrading and spending money where I don't need to.

p.s. good luck with your project!

Uncleskunky
06-21-2007, 11:47 PM
Whats your plan for the feed neck(beanz) I am buying yours?

Have you checked out the ep rams they sell on scenario dreams site?
It looks like they work inside the tube (no sleeve) I am a newb at building markers and have never even held a intimidator, but have learned alot online. I would appreciate your opinion.

Know of any sources for intimidator parts? in stock, and cheap? HeHe.
I am planning on making a "Pretty" spyminator out of my Sonix. while my mr will probably only be barely recognizable, more like a RAP marker I hope.

I have all evil parts for the sonix. lpr, hpr ram and cap. am using all cheap for the mr as I intend to box most of it in with some mil trim.
I am running on
I really can appreciate your quote under your username, this stuff is an illness I think.

Critical
06-22-2007, 05:42 AM
The way I looked at it, those EP rams are for the T-1 markers from Dragun, it might work, and for what he's selling those EP parts for, it might be worth it. I'm sticking with Intimidator parts, mainly because that's what has been done before, although the more I think about it, the more intriguing some of those parts become (especially the $10 ram and the $15 solenoid). As far as parts, www.intimidatorowners.com (although their traffic makes this site look like the pbnation!), and eBay sellers partitpaintball and lakeshore traders (not sure about the spaces in the names).

I made a list of every part, no matter how small and posted it above my paintball workstation, every day I review my choices, and take a quick pass around the net seeing what's available. Since I'm restricting myself on amount spent per month, and will not buy anything else until the previous stuff is paid for, it's taking me awile. and, since I'm being very specific in what parts I want, it's not going to be cheap either.

Definitely an illness.

badmagic
06-22-2007, 12:52 PM
Awesome project! I guess your going for a Mil-Sim but as fast as a Timmy. I'm looking forward to the pictures.

Uncleskunky
06-22-2007, 05:58 PM
Unfortunately the solenoids are 12 volt although SD's Tboards can handle the voltage he says.
I will have to use an actual timmy noid for the sonix I think, to fit all in a grip.

Did you see the $15 grip? and $19 dragun boards? A guy could go broke, oh wait too late 8~P

I have been really harassing Damon at scenario dreams, poor guy. He has been very helpful although not much info on those oddball items is available.

About the feed neck, sundragon carries a nice one. more of a 45 angle and all metal, I am thinking of getting one rotating it 180 to use for a direct qloader feed. My SD parts will be here soon I will let you know how they look.

My Scenario shopping list
2 rams 2dragun boards(1 for a friend) one of those 12v noids. the LPR a spyder electra/mr t board(better deal than the other, look at whats included)
and the cheapo grip.
need some fittings,tube, lookin at some Moody QEV's then maybe I can start puttin the MR together

For the Sonix I need fittings hose QEV sleeve pin valve and related, noid maybe.
and time, just a little free time.

later

Critical
06-22-2007, 06:43 PM
I'm going to end up getting the Sundragon feedneck adapter, but don't bother rotating it, it will be at the same angle, and the feed hole won't line up.

Nenkitsune
06-22-2007, 09:34 PM
well, you could use the stock feedneck, and use the direct feed adaptor for the qloader, and mount it up top. (or do what i did and hack it apart and turn it into a direct feed)

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 02:02 AM
Yeah I am gettin another from critical for the purpose of alteration or as a reserve in case of failure.
qloader mount for me will on the right side, so that nothing protrudes behind the butt end nor the barrel end with hard tube to warp feed T. just above trigger hand as close to marker as allowable.

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 02:07 AM
I'm going to end up getting the Sundragon feedneck adapter, but don't bother rotating it, it will be at the same angle, and the feed hole won't line up.

Dang, I knew the one screw hole would be an issue but it looked like it could be flipped. which would make the opening come up and right or slightly down, or so I thought.

Frustrations abound.
check my next post, I need your opinion.

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 02:20 AM
I may have made a disturbing discovery, in regard to the ep rams from Scenario D.
From what I gather they work with a normal pin valve and Damon has suggested this is so.
I was thinking I would use a Maddman Rocket valve and eliminate any valve spring issue due to the MR's different valve spring arrangement.

Trouble is when the ram strikes the valve pin HPA is going to come in and act on the ram and by extension the solenoid as well as the LPR, this is all conjecture for me but it would seem this could have a negative and expensive result.
A qev may help or eliminate this problem but I am not sure.

It would seem that from what I have seen of the timmy ram and pin valve, the ram is isolated from HPA by o ring and close tolerance.

I may be able to counter this by making my own valve pin for the stock valve
or trying to seal the opening some how on the ram side of the rocket valve.

What do you think?

Critical
06-23-2007, 05:05 AM
Here's a helpful diagram that I picked up from the intimidator owners forum on the layout and operation of a timmy:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Paintball/IntimidatorAnimation.gif
(full credit to those who created it originally, of course)

On the timmy, you are correct, the the ram is isolated from HP by an o-ring. I haven't been able to find anything out specifically, but, I would think that if the ram intentionally isn't isolated from HP on the T-1, then at least that side of the solenoid should be able to handle it. I was thinking of suggesting that you use a Spyder valve and the timmy poppit (what those snobby intimidator guys call the valve pin :D ), but, I checked, and the o-ring on the poppit doesn't quite line up (close enough to make you cry) Maybe you could convince one of the tinkerers on here to mill you a Spyder valve pin with an o-ring groove? I honestly just don't know enough about the T-1 setup to offer much helpful advice.

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 12:19 PM
Yet another painfully obvious detail I overlooked is the gaping hole for the sear.
not an insurmountable challenge. but definitely a major sealing issue.
I think I have the valve figured out. the rocket valve is shorter in length so I think I can do a good job of sealing the ram side with a vinyl or whatever washer from the hardware store it would be held in place by the body pin. Maybe could even convince maddman to sell me a rocket without the slot cut into it, probably not a big deal. the pin for the rocket is more similar to a timmy pin than the stock spider, all the flow is intended to come through the slot, on the stock valve pin the air comes through the flat part milled into the pin. as you are no doubt aware.
I really want to use the rocket valve because of its superior flow capability and the adjustability. the stock valve would be easier to make work as I could just thread a peice of full round stock for the regulator side(I forget what we call the little plastic thingy) AlamoCityPBall has some nice ones. I have an idea for making a small "mill" or "lathe"so to speak that would be ideal for milling oring slots in round stock. but I would still have the valve spring problem but thats what rulers are for right?
I have even given some thought to copying the rocket valve idea with a stock valve. although length becomes an issue and breech of the ball and so on and so on.
I am just tired of backtracking and waiting for parts and seeing my funds dwindle with out any real progress. wah wah boo hoo.
welcome to paintball they say.

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 12:37 PM
It may be that the t-1 used hp to push the ram back and lp to bring it forward I can always try that first, may work acceptably but is probably wasteful and may affect accuracy(why else would they (timmy guys) do it?) or cycle speed. but that would eliminate having to drill for fittings on the marker body and a pressure relief is already there I would only need one qev(not necessary anyway just better) if any. the cap side of the ram IS isolated from the valve side.
Its so crazy it just might work.
with qev installed not much pressure would be needed to push it back, definitely need a buffer though.

HMMMMM
wish my parts were here.

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 12:53 PM
Did some thinking,

Sear hole not a problem, nor the bolt pass through I overlooked too, the pressure comes through the cap acting on the end of the ram not the exterior but it could act on the exterior of of the valve side. no seal issue, its so beautiful it must be by design( I am a total DumbA$$.

Wish my parts were here.

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 03:05 PM
still a dumba$$,

Your right it is the ram from the 1 . spring return.
what do you think about fixing a nylon plug around the ram like a sleeve beyond the sear and bolt openings? creating an air tight chamber for cocking pressure?

Do you think this is just an exercise in futility?
Reviews of the one suggest great cycle rates, but a spimmy its not.
Downsides of the one kit on the Mr would be recoil no doubt and the inherent effect on accuracy and increased air demand while negligible perhaps.

Critical
06-23-2007, 06:49 PM
still a dumba$$,
Not qaulified to comment, as I'm frequently renewing my memebership in the Dumba$$e$ of America club.

Your right it is the ram from the 1 . spring return.
what do you think about fixing a nylon plug around the ram like a sleeve beyond the sear and bolt openings? creating an air tight chamber for cocking pressure?
Could work, That's really getting far outside of any expertise that I might be able to claim. I do think that you might increase drag to the point that you lose any posible benefits.

Do you think this is just an exercise in futility?
Reviews of the one suggest great cycle rates, but a spimmy its not.
Downsides of the one kit on the Mr would be recoil no doubt and the inherent effect on accuracy and increased air demand while negligible perhaps.
From what I've read, The One was never as good as an honest-to-god timmy, and since a spimmy is a timmy in spyder clothing, I would assume that a spimmy would be better than a T-1, but you should ask those who either have, or have shot, both for a better idea. As far as being an excercise in futility, isn't that part of tinkering with these guns?

Uncleskunky
06-23-2007, 09:55 PM
As far as being an excercise in futility, isn't that part of tinkering with these guns?

Forgive me for my shameful lamenting.

I really meant maybe I should just forget about these rams, and find a sleeve for this one as well.
I kinda wanted to make this one completely reversible. nothing permanent.
I really don't want to be auctioning this body, no offense.
And on the cheap too. I am big on cheap.
I am so far beyond what I thought I was gonna spend when I walked into big5 and bought the sonix pro players pack for $99+tax that somebody should shoot me.
I am gonna give it a go beanz I bought 2(DoubleDumba$$) and using a rocket valve or stock valve appeals to me in some sort of MacGyver(?) way.
Plus these things cycle pretty fast with that big ol striker in there.
Besides I like chicken Salad, and what better use for all this chicken$h*t.

a little secret, I have never even gone paintballing yet. I was supposed to go with some friends from work to an all day thing. and it didn't fall through.
I was thrashing around trying to pull together a decent setup in a couple weeks and then we didn't even go, I have never even been shot with one( I am so Ashamed) now I am just hooked on the mods.
I do like messing with the hardware, I have always enjoyed taking stuff and modifying it to suit my desires, a form of personal independence I guess.
Anyway onwards and up,back whateverwards.

Critical
06-24-2007, 11:19 AM
I say go for it! If you can make it work, or show how it can work, I might just follow your lead.

Uncleskunky
06-25-2007, 05:49 PM
It would be nice to find some delrin in the same diameter as the tube, maybe Alamo city.
It surprises me they didn't go for a more timmyesque mode in the one kit.
The only problem I see with just using valve blow would be venting of the pressure.
I won't be able to do much until I can put my hands on the pieces.
It would seem that one could possibly use the existing pressure relief as their air input. For true timmy functionality. and there for be reversible.

On the ram that you are using could you plug the input in the ram and drill another hole in the ram where the body hole is?

are you using the frenzy board?

You might check out Scenario Dreams.

They have an odyssey board for 20 bucks, throw in a membrane pad for a total of 30.
I got the piranha, but I wish I had got the 03 board and may still.
There isn't any capacitor. and you might be able to make the whole works fit in the Mr-1 grip.
Thats my plan, for the sonix.

Critical
06-25-2007, 06:55 PM
It doesn't look like I can do that to the ram, the body hole is used in both the timmy and the spyder for the body screw. I had planned on using a frenzy board, they're fairly cheap these days. I don't need to fit everything in the MR1 grip, I got a decent deal on a 2k2 parts timmy and it has the clamshell grip.

Uncleskunky
06-25-2007, 08:19 PM
I was under the impression that the valve set screw held the sleeve in place and the hole that needed to be drilled was for the forward fitting and that the bleed hole was unused.
I thought that if possible one could just thread the bleed hole for the fitting. if you could plug the other or just leave it and then drill a hole in the sleeve in the same place as the bleed hole and either thread the bleed whole or the new hole in the sleeve or whatever is required. Just to avoid drilling the body. and thus be reversible.
Depending on where you go though, sleeves and MR's are about the same price.:)

I realized you had the 2k2 grip, but you know for your next project8~p. the mr grip is really nice, although strangely I put mine on the sonix and its not reseting every time causing me to have to let it travel more forward and then pull. Time for a trigger mod.
When I get my parts from scena- D I am going to have grips coming out my ears. but you just can't beat his prices.
Last night I was looking at the grip that came with the sonix pro( a straight grip)
I could make a bracket move the grip to the middle of an mr and make a mac10 or mini uzi lookalike. I told you I was nuts.

Uncleskunky
06-25-2007, 10:52 PM
Really big but this was what scenario dreams used to offer, definately has possiblities ,Hope that spring comes with.http://www.scenariodreams.com/images/T_Kit.jpg

Oscum Guy
06-26-2007, 07:12 AM
you are building a t1. it is a fasor. the spring will go betwee. the ram and the valve. you will also need a reg. drewdebo (sumthin like that.) on ebay sells dragun regs for $10. they mount on a spyder drop forward.vif you are using co2, you might also want an expansion chamber.

Uncleskunky
06-26-2007, 07:25 PM
you are building a t1. it is a fasor. the spring will go betwee. the ram and the valve. you will also need a reg. drewdebo (sumthin like that.) on ebay sells dragun regs for $10

Yeah I know, but if I can't use the ram for an improvised spimmy, at least I could use it the way it was intended.
I have a couple Evil detonators, purchased at a good price and intend to use those but I would be interested in a more compact reg.

Uncleskunky
06-26-2007, 08:31 PM
Yeah I know

Not that I can't use advice, definitely could use some advice.

Thanks Oscum Guy, I was just passing on some info to Critical,
Alot of the above items could be used in a spimmy the LPR and VA, grip frame, I got everything pictured form scenario dreams except eyes, electronics, and valves for about 35$
I recently purchased a evil lpr and va and a detonator hpr, plus ram and cap for something like $80and that seemed like a good deal, thought this would make for some cheap spimmy action and now am trying to make the spring return ram function like a spimmy or maybe it should be Spammy for all the cheap parts.

Ace24
06-27-2007, 09:53 PM
By the way, thats a Zip Kit. The trigger on the T-1 is different. So is the VA, LPR, Spring is thicker on the T-1 and Trigger frame is different with a larger trigger guard. That frame has a VER-C Ultra Chipped T-board in it from Scenario Dreams as well.

Uncleskunky
06-29-2007, 10:08 PM
It doesn't look like I can do that to the ram, the body hole is used in both the timmy and the spyder for the body screw. I had planned on using a frenzy board, they're fairly cheap these days. I don't need to fit everything in the MR1 grip, I got a decent deal on a 2k2 parts timmy and it has the clamshell grip.

Got my parts.
Short one Ram but it came with the balance valve. SCORE! the pin is completely round as to not pass HP air.
already started hacking it, the mr bolt pin doesnt fit but I just drilled it out and its perfect, if everything else works(laces up skates, for the uphill ice rink) I will still have the ability to pull the bolt and swab through easily.
I will PM you some pics after a bit, so as your thread doesn't go all weird.
Love the scenario board, easy install, cool features no chops even without eyes.

Game on!!!

Critical
06-30-2007, 08:30 AM
Nice!

Oscum Guy
06-30-2007, 09:50 AM
Got my parts.
Short one Ram but it came with the balance valve. SCORE! the pin is completely round as to not pass HP air.
already started hacking it, the mr bolt pin doesnt fit but I just drilled it out and its perfect, if everything else works(laces up skates, for the uphill ice rink) I will still have the ability to pull the bolt and swab through easily.
I will PM you some pics after a bit, so as your thread doesn't go all weird.
Love the scenario board, easy install, cool features no chops even without eyes.

Game on!!!
send me the pics to!

dude, i totally forgot about the sd front block for my bros low budget spimmy, i bought a cocker lpr for $5.

____________
if anyone needs to find really cheap parts, i can help, cuz i tend to find really cheap crap on ebay.

p.s. what kind of hose does the t1 front block use?

Uncleskunky
06-30-2007, 12:01 PM
p.s. what kind of hose does the t1 front block use?

I think they're calling it Micro as opposed to macro line. the LPR fitting is threaded so you could probably do what ever you want.

if anyone needs to find really cheap parts, i can help, cuz i tend to find really cheap crap on ebay.

I think both Critical and myself would take you up on that:p
I would still like to do one spimmy full legit,
would need sleeve poppet, pin, solenoid and cocking handle as well as associated hose,barbs and seals.
Although if I can make this other hardware work it may not be necessary.
Spammy's for everyone!!!!

vikingshadow
06-30-2007, 05:16 PM
you are building a t1. it is a fasor. the spring will go betwee. the ram and the valve. you will also need a reg. drewdebo (sumthin like that.) on ebay sells dragun regs for $10. they mount on a spyder drop forward.vif you are using co2, you might also want an expansion chamber.
You shouldn't use Co2 on the T1 kit or any of it's clones. It's not good for the solenoid. Also, while the Dragun reg is a decent reg, it's not super great AND they use the crappy hose fitting that is much smaller than the normal ones. You'll have to find an adapter for it...
p.s. what kind of hose does the t1 front block use?
I think they're calling it Micro as opposed to macro line.

Actually, it's better to use Cocker hose - it's much more flexible. When I had my T1, I tried using micro line. No go. Didn't work. WAY to stiff and you had to bend it just right to get it to connect to the solenoid.

Uncleskunky
06-30-2007, 05:29 PM
I meant the line is very small and the connections are "like" macroline.

Push in self locking. other than that I don't know because it didn't come with hose.

Uncleskunky
07-01-2007, 10:47 AM
Dang near made a MR.Brick last night.
Got all set up to lengthen the hole so the lpr could be mounted, wrapped tape around the area to avoid scratching had a rag threaded through the body to keep shavings out. I was happily grinding away watching the final fight between Smith and Neo in the Matrix revolutions out of the corner of my eye when I realized I was grinding on the REAR GRIP SCREW HOLE!!!!!
Luckily It still threads in and tightens down.
JEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZ!!!!!

Unfortunately I will ALWAYS know its there.

Oscum Guy
07-02-2007, 09:04 AM
You shouldn't use Co2 on the T1 kit or any of it's clones. It's not good for the solenoid. Also, while the Dragun reg is a decent reg, it's not super great AND they use the crappy hose fitting that is much smaller than the normal ones. You'll have to find an adapter for it...
yeah i know, you could use co2 and make it work but shouldnt.

Actually, it's better to use Cocker hose - it's much more flexible. When I had my T1, I tried using micro line. No go. Didn't work. WAY to stiff and you had to bend it just right to get it to connect to the solenoid.
could you use timmy hose.

Uncleskunky
07-07-2007, 10:31 PM
good news Critical.

ever heard of boost custom batteries?
they have a 16volt Lithium Ion batt and charger kit for $69 add a external chg port for 14.
SD T boards for spyder handle up to 30 volts and the odyssey board(currently$20) will handle 18volts.
That would make those 12volt solenoids they offer look even juicier.
Also had another spammy idea.
why not make a custom fitting where the stock valve retainer goes?
the valves that come with the SD ep ram has a blind(doesn't Pass through) hole in the bottom where the brass retainer screw goes. new dezigns valves as well.
why couldn't one install a plug then drill and tap for hose barb(10/32 i believe) and then drill a hole in the valve body?
Completely reversible.
add a cap of some kind to the ep ram available from SD delrin perhaps, viola instant spammy.
Whaddya think?

Critical
07-08-2007, 06:43 AM
Could work. I'm more visual, so I'd have to see a diagram or pic of exactly what you're talking about. But, it sounds like you would be crossing high pressure air and low pressure air in the drilled valve?

vikingshadow
07-08-2007, 07:08 AM
could you use timmy hose.

I'm not sure. I know I searched a long time before I found some that actually worked.

I hate saying this, but your best bet on finding this stuff is to go to PBnation Dragun forums (or the Odyssey forums) and see what they have to say about hoses. There used to be a Dragun forum available, but once the ship went down, so did the forums....Also, you can check some of the old stores I used to visit for Dragun stuff (Zenitram, Pyrate paintball, can't think of the others off the top of my head, right now) and see what they still have.

Uncleskunky
07-08-2007, 10:44 AM
Could work. I'm more visual, so I'd have to see a diagram or pic of exactly what you're talking about. But, it sounds like you would be crossing high pressure air and low pressure air in the drilled valve?


yeah in a nutshell, except the two would be separate. The only real benefit would be not having to drill or tap the body, and it would place the air input that would act on the ram right where it should be, just below the valve stem. The only potential problem I can see is whether the air coming in through the improvised fitting might have the tendency to keep the valve open. I suspect not as spring pressure and HPA will be acting on the cup seal to close it as well as the dwell adjustment on the board and QEV offering as little resistance as possible to the reseting of the ram.
You can see that "reversible" is my biggest priority, if not in total conflict with reason or practicality....

As a matter of fact I would be surprised it something didn't already exist, a bleeder screw of some kind.
Imagine a threaded brass plug with hole drilled in the side of the thread, the head of the plug drilled and tapped for a barb or qev. the hole in the side of the plug would correspond to a hole drilled from the ram side of the valve below the stem through to where your hole in the side of the plug is. It would have to be lined up and sealed but it could be done. whether it would work is another story.
But hey Edison probably tried goat hair for light bulb filaments before he found tungsten,right?

Uncleskunky
07-08-2007, 01:37 PM
More good news,

ACP makes stainless cored delrin rams for the one! $26!!!

I intend to contact him and see if he would make me one that was 11/16 and oringed on the valve side with a cupped face.

That would solve all my probs, or make some new ones.

Why hasn't anyone done this before?
Is there something I am missing?

Oh and it weighs 27g as opposed to 89g
that makes for a spunky spammy, add his low blow delrin bolt and Damn!!!!

Uncleskunky
07-09-2007, 06:24 PM
Hey Critical,
This is what I wrote to ACP, do you think I was to presumptive? Too much Ki$$A$$? or What? was the freebee thing too much?

Hello,

Love your stuff, don't have any yet but love it just the same.
I have a request/ proposition for you if your interested.
I have been kicking around an Idea. I am in the process of building a intimidator like functioning marker, my raw material being a spyder mr1, or any spyder for that matter(slim style).
I made some exceptional buys for "t-kit" parts from scenario dreams, similar to the one kit from Dragun. It struck me and I may not be the first but why not find a way to incorporate a air return functionality to this style ram? instead of a spring?
Would you be interested in making one for me?
I think a short cupped area like your strikers have would be sufficient, and perhaps oringed, but short ( the cupped valve side) so as to eliminate drag would be perfect. I have no interest in marketing the idea, if it is in fact marketable. but would only wish to be recognized as the originator and maybe a discount or a few freebees?
Please write back with any opinions or advice, or perhaps what you might charge me for the custom piece mentioned above.

I have grown partial to the name Spammy for my idea's involving this design.
thanks for your time, hope to hear from you soon.

C

Critical
07-09-2007, 06:52 PM
Interesting...They should probably be willing to make that custom piece, at the very least. Let me know what they say.

Uncleskunky
07-10-2007, 07:19 PM
Alamo City Paintball

i'll take a look but the time of a one up can be can be substantial. i would need whatever compononts you have to work with in order to complete a kit.
ron



Not exactly jumping for joy, and throwing "spammy" rams at me is he?
I wrote him a longer email in response, hopefully won't pi$$ him off.

Maybe I should just try somebody local.

Critical
07-11-2007, 06:09 AM
You might be able to have more control, and a better response locally, but I think it might cost a lot.

Uncleskunky
07-11-2007, 07:13 PM
no response, he's pi$$ed.

LAME!!!!!

I sent him a mail once asking which of his bolts would fit the Sonix, he never replied just put a new sonix bolt on his page, maybe I'll get lucky.

Critical
07-11-2007, 07:25 PM
Eh, oh well. People who never ask for what they want are the only one's who are guaranteed to never get it. Maybe you will get lucky; and, don't give up on the idea. If you honestly think the idea is feasible, someone with the manufacturing ability will come along eventually.

On a side note, I have more parts coming finally. Picked up a WAS board that is currently getting updated to 2.9 that I'll need to convert back to 2.8, a Frenzy 110 board that the eye function apparently doesn't work on, the LCD, a Critical trigger (of course!), the wiring harnesses and a solenoid. He's supposed to ship tomorrow or Friday.

Uncleskunky
07-11-2007, 07:37 PM
Those was have a pc link don't they?
Are you gonna flash it your self?
How did you do on your noid $wise?
I found what they are calling calling a 5 way for e frame or racegun's at Barbspaintball ebay store. for $32 shipped just don't know anything about it.
I want a 5v noid just to make things easier but I don't want to pay alot Of course.

Critical
07-11-2007, 07:46 PM
Used Intimidator noids are running right around $45. I beat that by a little bit 'cause I bought a bunch of stuff.

Critical
07-16-2007, 07:35 PM
Hooray Parts!!!

Okay, so not a huge deal, but here's what that Santa with the funny blue shorts dropped off for the Mil-Spim today:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/jeffstory/Mil-Spim%20Project/NewParts.jpg

Frenzy 110 Board (supposedly the eye's don't work, we'll see, haha) that I picked up for $5!
14 point harness
12 point harness
Solenoid w/ barbs (now I don't need to buy new one's!)
Critical trigger (I don't even have a trigger return spring and I already love this trigger!)

Uncleskunky
07-17-2007, 06:13 PM
Super sweeeeeeeeeeeeet,

I like that trigger, got a similar one coming from action village "roller Saber"
I thought it said dollar Saver when I bought it:p


Spimmy on!!!!!!!!!

Critical
07-17-2007, 06:53 PM
I absolutely love this trigger. I hooked up the LCD and played around, even without a return, I hit 10 bps!

Uncleskunky
07-17-2007, 07:04 PM
What ya think about those magnetic kits?

Critical
07-17-2007, 07:06 PM
I think it'll look great tucked up inside my clamshell!

Uncleskunky
07-17-2007, 08:19 PM
I think it'll look great tucked up inside my clamshell!


are you talking about the magnetic trigger return kit? or how much you'll love your trigger in the clamshell?
Your trippin me out man.

I think Critical has gone....

TRIGGER HAPPY!!!!!!:D

Critical
07-18-2007, 04:31 AM
Sorry. I meant the magnetic return kit.

Uncleskunky
07-18-2007, 04:53 PM
I was only asking, cuz I wanted to tell you about them if you didn't know what they were, I haven't ever tried one but it seems like a great idea. there is a tutorial on Otterscustoms site I think.

Plus I needed an in for my "trigger happy" line.
Paintball humor opportunities are few and far between some days.

Critical
07-18-2007, 06:59 PM
Absolutely true. I appreciated the humor, been on a downward slope recently.

Nenkitsune
07-19-2007, 12:26 AM
i thought of an idea for your air return ram mod. Find a way to put a magnet in the ramsleeve so that when the bolt is in the cocked position, the magnet holds it, but once you fire it, the air pressure overcomes the magnet, thus shooting it. the blowback air pops the ram back, then the magnet holds it open.

Uncleskunky
07-19-2007, 04:55 AM
Absolutely true. I appreciated the humor, been on a downward slope recently.

I know what you mean, life often gets in the way of one's paintball projects.
I have an arrangement with Ron at ACP though finally. I am going to send some specs, one of the ram and sleeve kits and the price of one of his rams as a down payment. I still haven't nailed down an estimate from him yet. But at least it seems like progress till I get the bill anyway.

Oscum Guy
07-25-2007, 04:33 PM
I know what you mean, life often gets in the way of one's paintball projects.
I have an arrangement with Ron at ACP though finally. I am going to send some specs, one of the ram and sleeve kits and the price of one of his rams as a down payment. I still haven't nailed down an estimate from him yet. But at least it seems like progress till I get the bill anyway.
lol ion :dodgy:

Uncleskunky
07-25-2007, 09:00 PM
Just saw your pics(updated 7-1-07)

That sleeve install is a thing of beauty. Nice work.

I'm waitin on parts as usual.
Smoked a capacitor on my T board, wrong polarity,
Stupid 12volt solenoid......
Stupid wires, stupid dropped out of voc tech electronics, stupid stupid stupid.

Still works though, don't think I need it with pneumatic noid anyway.

I was thinking of puttin' the bouncebeam right where you were on your first MR.spimmy(RIP).
any pointers?

Critical
07-26-2007, 05:13 AM
Go slow, use a drill press if you've got one available. If you're putting it on the feedneck side, make sure it's low. Otherwise, you'll tear out the same chunk I did.

codymm1014
08-15-2007, 04:34 PM
Any updates? I want to see the final result of this.

Critical
08-19-2007, 04:44 PM
No updates yet. About the only change is that I've gotten all of the electronics. However, since I don't have half the screws I need, I didn't think a mass of wires and stuff hanging out of the clamshell would be interesting. I should be ordering more parts near the end of this month. I'll post updates as soon as I have any. There may also, possibly, be a change in bodies, maybe. We'll see.

Thanks for keeping up the interest!

codymm1014
09-22-2007, 11:39 AM
Been a month, no updates? I want to see this bad boy.

tater_salad
09-30-2007, 01:54 PM
So how's it going?

Critical
10-01-2007, 08:19 AM
Life has intervened. I've had some things get in the way, and, since I'm paying cash for all the parts, I haven't had any to spare. It'll probably be November before I can get back to it. Thanks for keeping the interest guys, it helps keep me motivated to get it done.

codymm1014
10-05-2007, 02:51 PM
If you can finish it in time you should enter it into the Gun Building contest here.

Critical
10-06-2007, 09:20 AM
I definitely will not have it done in time. Plus, there's no way I could get it down below the dollar limit, I spent almost $100 on just the Intimidator parts.

Oscum Guy
11-24-2007, 04:28 PM
any updates on this?

Critical
11-24-2007, 05:32 PM
I'm waiting on some $. I should have enough after Christmas to buy all the remaining parts, then spend the winter months putting it together and testing it.

SparkyGT
11-28-2007, 03:52 PM
should be neato, im still thinking bout doing a spimmy one day on some of my extra spyder stuff

Sonix_Nub3
12-18-2007, 04:59 PM
Very, very nice idea... GOOD LUCK! I'm anxious to see the final thing :)

Critical
12-19-2007, 05:32 PM
Believe me, so am I. :D

DFSniper
12-19-2007, 05:40 PM
if its not too late, you should take a page out of cody's book and make an asa/reg like that!
http://spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=12557&page=21

Sonix_Nub3
12-19-2007, 05:52 PM
pm me a heads up when ur finished, so i dont miss the pics ^_^

thanks,
sonix :)

Critical
12-19-2007, 06:01 PM
if its not too late, you should take a page out of cody's book and make an asa/reg like that!
http://spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=12557&page=21

That's pretty much the idea I had for the ASA. I'm going to use a Palmer's Stabilizer with their ring mount, mount a Micro Rock to the side of it, then run the LP air line through the grip frame.