View Full Version : BlowBack and Popcorning issue
05-03-2007, 10:41 AM
i am having a lot of paintball breaks in the feedneck and the hopper,
i am using a Pilot ACS + HALO TSA + S2 J&J barrel. @ < 285fps
with or without the hooper you can easily see how a ball goes up to the feedneck causing breaks inside,
i have been reading in some forums that many people has this same issue in their Pilots, but nobody has a fix a it.
any idea how to fix this?
some of them mention to break in the ACS spring, or reduce the Valve pin.
05-03-2007, 05:10 PM
yeah take out your acs bolt and compress it 1000-2000 times and it will fix the problem
ross * pilot
05-03-2007, 05:26 PM
Hey anemix, welcome to the forums. I have a couple ways to reduce your issue. I myself have had the same issue, and i know how frustrating it is. First is to dremel off the tip of the striker, the little raised circle at the oring end. This will delay the striker striking the valve pin, and those milliseconds will help the bolt block the feedneck. I read about this on pbnation.com hope this helps
05-03-2007, 06:56 PM
or you can stop using crappy paint
05-03-2007, 09:08 PM
First of all welcome to the forum.
Another option is getting a force feed loader. I'm not really a fan of the Halo TSA. If you were to get a Halo B, Reloader B, VLocity (my personal favorite) or Pulse, because they are force feed loaders and there is constant pressure on the ball stack blow back is not an issue.
05-06-2007, 12:12 PM
I am a relative newby, but had the same problem as you. What I found was that the popcorning was happening when my barrel was even a little bit fouled (like if you accidentally fire a ball into your barrel condom, and a part goes down the barrel and you don't realize it). My guess is that the added friction and/or gas-sealing effect of paint in the barrel increases the backpressure enough to cause popcorning. Sometimes it was bad enough to break balls in the feed neck, making the problem even worse.
I also did what others have recommended and broke in the ACS bolt. I didn't compress it 1000 times like some recommend, but about 300. Then I added an agitated (not force-fed) hopper.
Well, after all that, I played 8 hours straight with just one ball break. I really think it was a matter of all 3 things (fouling, bolt, and hopper) working together that caused the problems before.
05-08-2007, 03:01 PM
well, thanks to all for your responses,
i already broke in the ACS bolt as most people say, not 1000 times but close to that.
maybe as you say the barrel can help with that issue,
i will try to dremel off the tip of the striker as tori mentioned and see what happens,
i let you know, thanks.
05-08-2007, 03:31 PM
Suggesting a dangerous act such as you did is a bannable offense and we will not stand for it on this forum, joking or not. Don't do it again. jjr
05-08-2007, 04:43 PM
what did he say?
ross * pilot
05-08-2007, 05:43 PM
I dont know lol.. oh tori is the name of my gun (yea, we here at kingman forums like to do that ;D) you can just call me ross. I think dremmeling off the tip of the striker will help. You can read more on pbnation.com if you search popcorning or blowback.. thats where i got that possible solution. Hope it works
05-08-2007, 07:49 PM
what did he say?
He suggested doing something that could be very dangerous. He was probably joking but we have a wide range of age on this forum and we don't want anybody getting any ideas. What he said does not need to be repeated and will not be repeated. If it is by anybody who saw it they will be banned, even if they are just posting to let everyone know what he said.
05-09-2007, 02:33 PM
just to say... i didnt suggest it and sorry about that
05-29-2007, 09:25 PM
I bought a bolt with O-rings on it to replace the stock one, and that helped on my marker. Got it from www.alamocitypb.com. Also from advice here I did not get their "low blow" bolt, but rather the regular one.
As suggested by another person on this forum I bought their extra o-ring pack also and replaced the one on my stryker.
07-16-2007, 11:38 AM
ok, what i did... replace the valve cup seal (#12) and striker O-ring (#19A)
now is working ok.