View Full Version : leaking problem
04-17-2007, 06:39 PM
hi my friend gave me an old shutter that he had accidentally screwed a pointed screw in front of the trigger guard and up into the chamber where the co2 connects to the gun. is there a way that i can reseal the chamber and use the gun properly?
04-18-2007, 06:24 PM
Are you talking about the front most hole that holds on the trigger frame? I actually caused a leak from here as well when I was drilling the hole larger for more flow. USE JB Weld---can find it at any hardware/auto store. You mix it up, put just a little into the hole (not enough to stop the screw from going back in), after doing this, you may have to drill through the hole from the LPR to the valve area to clear out any that pushes into the hole and restricts it. The JB Weld has a lot of strength to it, so you wont have to worry about it blowing out again---just make sure it is fully cured before you pressure the gun up. Worked like a charm!
04-18-2007, 06:30 PM
you can also look in the b/s/t for a used Spyder body and just replace it.
04-18-2007, 07:09 PM
I think the only safe repair is to either replace the body or to attempt to seal a well affixed frame screw. 800 psi should not be trifled with, your health is not worth it. If sealing the frame screw does not do it....I would scrap the body and look for a new one.
There are other safe methods but the labor will far outway the worth of the body.....just jb welding the hole is unsafe....jb weld has poor resistance to extreme cold...and co2 is cold....
04-18-2007, 07:54 PM
my friend said that if i rethreaded the hole i should be able to get a larger screw and put some teflon paste on it then it would hold it in. would this be safe?
Listen to Bamf and VW and replace the body, chasing a leak is a pain in the arse and ensuring your marker is safe is the way to go.
04-18-2007, 08:06 PM
bamf vw b/s/t what do these mean?
04-18-2007, 08:07 PM
At the bottom of the cover page here you will find this section....
Lots of cool things for sale there :)
04-19-2007, 01:28 PM
Sorry about that---didnt see that you were using CO2---get a new body. I am using HPA, so I am not worried about it. FYI-the JB Weld has held fine, and is about an 1/8" thick in the bottom of the hole---plenty strong.
04-19-2007, 06:54 PM
how much does it cost to run hpa? would it run on a 68 automag? where do you get large tanks for the storing of it? thanks about the jb weld i'll try and buy some tomorrow i'll give you a heads up if it works
04-20-2007, 03:12 PM
it costs whatever the tank cost you usually around 80-200 dollars depending on size and pressure. the large tanks you refer to are called scuba tanks you get them at a diving shop and get them filled at a diving shop you need a special fill station to fill the smaller tank
04-22-2007, 02:03 PM
IF you happen to be in the market for a new hopper, firstcallpaintball.com has a nitro kit with a 72/3000 tank and a Egg 3 hopper for $100. I got it and it is great. However, the tank is a steel one, so it is heavy as hell. I use a remote and put it in my pack (NXE waist pod carrier---just fits....and I mean JUST)